Hooked On Patterns’ Featured Designer: Jenny Miller
I’m excited to introduce our very first Featured Designer here on the Hooked On Patterns blog, Jenny Miller of JennymillerArtistry Ravelry.
Jenny is an actress, writer, photographer, crochet designer, and crafter extraordinaire. She loves all things creative and is always delighted to learn something new. One of her current passions is crafting amigurumi to delight her two granddaughters.
Jenny has kindly shared one of those creations with all of you! She has designed this gorgeous March Fairy to join in with St. Patrick’s Day celebrations.
March Fairy Crochet Pattern
A pose-able fairy doll
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Scroll down to view the free fairy doll crochet pattern
This pattern has been provided by Jenny to be used as a free-to-view pattern here on my blog. If you would like the full printable PDF download of the March Fairy pattern, you can purchase it directly from Jenny’s Ravelry Store here:
The free fairy doll crochet pattern makes a pose-able doll, with flexible arms and legs. So your fairy can sit, stand, or wrap her arms around anything you like. Of course, you can choose to omit the wire limb joints to make a basic doll instead. The finished March Fairy doll measures approx. 11.5 inches tall, using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.
For this St. Patrick’s Day themed March Fairy doll, Jenny has used Caron Simply Soft Party, an acrylic yarn with metallic thread, to add a magical sparkle to her fairy.
As this free fairy doll crochet pattern is designed and written by an independent featured designer, please pay close attention to the pattern notes, as writing styles may differ from what you usually find on this website.
Now over to Jenny Miller for the free fairy doll crochet pattern!
Worsted weight yarn:
Caron Simply Soft Party Spring Sparkle (green)
Caron Simply Soft Party Cream Sparkle (cream)
I Love This Yarn Desert Glaze (orange)
Small amount of White yarn for the eyes.
Size F-3.75 mm and C-2.75 mm crochet hooks.
Strand of Pink embroidery thread for the lips.
Pair of Green safety eyes – 10mm in diameter.
False eyelashes (they don’t have to be expensive) & fabric glue for attaching.
Polyester fibrefill stuffing.
Thin dowel rod (for stuffing small parts of the doll).
Tapestry or darning needle.
For the tutu – Small piece of elastic, Green tulle, and some ribbon.
Optional for a pose-able doll – 20 or 22 gauge wire and duct or electrical tape.
This Pattern is written using US crochet terms.
Gauge is not important for this pattern, just be certain to make stitches tight enough to hold stuffing. Working yarn under, rather than yarn over, makes tighter stitches.
Unless otherwise specified, you will be working in rounds. It’s advisable to keep track of the beginning of rounds with a stitch marker.
Crochet in both loops of stitches unless otherwise specified.
This pattern also uses the “magic circle” technique. You can look up the YouTube video “CROCHET: How to Crochet a Magic Circle | Bella Coco” to learn how to do the circle.
Fairy is about 11.5 inches tall.
Please note: This doll is not recommended for children under the age of three, due to the use of safety eyes and eyelashes. If using wire, this doll is not recommended for children under the age of 8 years old.
Abbreviations and symbols:
(ch) chain, (sl st) slip stitch, (sc) single crochet, (sc2tog) single crochet two together or single crochet decrease, (hdc) half double crochet, (hdc2tog) half double crochet two together or hdc decrease, (dc) double crochet, (tr) triple crochet, (sk) skip, (blp) back loop, (rnd) round.
[ ] repeat instructions in the brackets, ( ) number of stitches in a round/row or side notes.
FREE FAIRY DOLL CROCHET PATTERN
Starting at the shoulders, using Cream and F-3.75 mm hook. Remember to use yarn under technique for tighter stitches.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, sc x8 in ring (8)
Rnd 2. 2sc in each st around (16)
Rnd 3. [sc, 2sc in next st] around (24)
Rnd 4. [sc x2, 2sc in next st] around (32)
Rnd 5. [sc x3, 2sc in next st] around (40)
Rnd 6. sc in each st around (40) Change to Spring Sparkle (green)
Rnd 7. sc in each st around (40)
Rnd 8. sc in blp around (40)
Rnd 9. [sc x2, sc2tog] around (30)
Rnd 10. [sc x3, sc2tog] around (24)
Rnd 11. sc in each st around (24)
Tightly stuff the top part of the body.
Rnd 12. [sc x2, sc2tog] around (18)
Rnds 13-16. Sc in each st around (18)
Rnd 17. [sc x2, 2sc in next st] (24)
Rnds 18-19. sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 20. [sc x3, 2sc in next st] (30)
Rnds 21-22. sc in each st around (30)
Rnd 23. [sc x3, sc2tog] around (24)
Rnds 24-25. sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 26. [sc x2, sc2tog] around (18)
Rnd 27. sc in each st around (18) Stuff firmly.
Rnd 28. [sc, sc2tog] around (12) Add additional polyfill, if needed.
Rnd 29. sc2tog around (6)
Finish off, leaving a long tail. Weave tail through the last 6 stitches. Fasten off and tuck tail inside body.
Use the front loops of the stitches from round 8. With green at top and cream at bottom, attach yarn to the first front loop at the point of color change.
hdc x15, dc x2, tr, dc, hdc, sl st, hdc, dc, tr, dc x2, hdc in remaining sts. sl st to first hdc, fasten off, and weave in end.
Legs (make 2):
With Spring Sparkle (green) and F—3.75 mm hook
Rnd 1. Ch 6, starting in 2nd ch from hook sc x4, 3sc in last ch, Do not turn. Continue working along opposite side, sc x3, 2sc in last ch (12)
You will continue working in rounds now. Start using stitch marker at beginning of round 2.
Rnd 2. 2sc in first st, sc x3, [2sc in next st]x3, sc x3, [2sc in next st]x2 (18)
Rnd 3. sc in each st around (18)
Rnd 4. Working in blp, sc in each st around (18)
Rnd 5. Working in BOTH loops, sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 6. sc x5, sc2tog, hdc2tog x2, sc2tog, sc x5 (14) Change to cream.
Rnd 7. sl st in blp each st around (14)
Rnd 8. sc in blp each st around (14) Stuff the foot.
Rnd 9. sc x3, sc2tog x4, sc x3 (10)
Rnd 10. sc x8, sc2tog (9 sts)
Rnds 11-14. sc in each st around (9)
Rnd 15. sc x3, 2sc in next st, sc x4, 2sc in next st (11)
Rnds 16-22. Sc in each st around. (11 sts) Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew leg to body.
After completing both legs, cut a piece of wire about 24 inches in length. Twist wire together.
Insert looped end of wire into leg making sure it goes all the way into the foot. Finish stuffing the leg using your dowel. Make sure stuffing surrounds the wire on all sides. Insert the other end of the wire in between rows 5 and 6 from the bottom. Sew first leg to body.
Curl the other end of the wire into itself. Make sure it’s the wire is the length of the leg. To prevent the wire from poking through, wrap the end in electrical or duct tape. Insert wire, stuff leg. Sew leg to body.
Arms (make 2):
With Cream and F—3.75 mm hook
Rnd 1. Magic circle, sc x7 into circle (7)
Rnds 2-15. sc in each st around (7) Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew arm to body.
Follow the same procedure as you did with the legs. Cut wire about 20” in length. Stuff arms the same way you did for the legs. Insert wire between third and fourth row from the bodice making sure that the arms will be parallel with the legs. Finish stuffing the arm. Sew arms to body with the top of the arm 2 rows the top of the body.
Starting at top of head with cream and F-3.75 hook. Remember to use yarn under technique.
Rnd 1. Magic circle, sc x6 in circle (6)
Rnd 2. 2sc in each sc (12)
Rnd 3. [sc, 2sc in next st] around (18)
Rnd 4. [sc x2, 2sc in next st] around (24)
Rnd 5. [sc x3, 2sc in next st] around (30)
Rnds 6-10. sc in each st (30)
Rnd 11. [sc x3, sc2tog] around (24)
Rnds 12-13. sc in each st (24)
Rnd 14. [sc x2, sc2tog] around (18)
Rnd 15. sc in each st (18)
Before continuing, attach safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9, with 4 stitches between the stems of the eyes. Stuff head tightly.
Rnd 16: [sc, sc2tog] around (12)
Rnd 17: [sc, sc2tog] around (8)
Rnds 18-20: sc in each st (8) Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Finish stuffing the neck. Use dowel rod to push the stuffing into the neck.
Attach neck to upper body. Make sure eyes are parallel with legs and arms.
Cut about 50 strands of 13-inch long strands of Desert Glaze (orange). Starting at row 4 at base of neck, connect a single line of yarn around the head. Taper to three stitches from the side of eye and three stitches above the eyes. See photos.
Ears (Make two):
With cream and C—2.75 mm hook Ch 6, leaving a tail to sew ear to head. Row 1. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, tr in last ch. Ch 1, turn. (5) Row 2. Hdc x2, sc x2, sl st in last st (5) Fasten off and weave in end.
With Row 2 as the top of the ear, attach ears two stitches behind hairline. The top of the ear should be level with the top of the eyes.
Now unravel each strand of hair yarn. You will have 4 different strands per piece of yarn. Pull hair neatly to the top of head and tie tightly with the orange yarn. Make sure you pull the yarn in front and back of ears. Trim any overly long pieces of hair. Don’t try to make it too even. You want it a little messy looking.
1. Use cream to sew two small lines above eyes for eyelids. Let the first line touch the top of the eye.
2. With a single strand of orange, put eyebrows right above eyelids.
3. Using white, sew line from mid outside of eye to just below the inside of eye. The yarn will follow the curve of the eye.
4. Use the smallest part of the false eyelashes and cut about 5 “lashes.” Using fabric glue, glue them on the eye as shown.
5. Using pink embroidery thread, sew two lines about 3 stitches long about 4 rows below the eyes.
6. Apply blush with Q-Tip. If it goes on too dark, use a clean Q-Tip to remove the excess.
Wings (Make two):
With cream and C—2.75 mm hook Even though you are beginning with a magic circle, you will be working in rows.
Row 1. Make magic circle. Ch 4 (acts as 1st dc and ch 1 sp), [dc, ch 1] x4, dc. Pull ring closed. Turn. (6 dc and 5 ch1 sp)
Row 2. Ch 3 (acts as 1st dc), 2 dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 2, [3 dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 2] x3. 3 dc in last ch 1 sp. Fasten off cream. Turn. (5 3dc clusters)
Row 3. Join green in the last dc, ch4 (acts as the 1st tr), sk next dc, tr in next dc, [ch 3, 3 hdc in ch 2 sp, ch 3, tr in next dc, sk next dc, tr in next dc] x4. Turn. (5 tr clusters and 4 hdc clusters)
Row 4. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitrh), [sc x2 along tr sts, 3 sc in ch 3 sp, sl st in middle hdc st, 3 sc in ch 3 sp] x4, sc x2 along last tr sts. Fasten off and weave in ends. (34 sc and 4 sl st)
Find center of back. Starting at bodice, sew wings two stitches apart on bodice. Continue sewing to body. Tuck yarn end into body.
1. Cut elastic about ½ inch longer than dolls waist. Overlap the extra and sew together.
2. Cut about 20 pieces of green tulle 3×8 inches.
3. Fold a piece in half and pull it under the elastic. Take the bottom pieces and pull them through the top loop.
4. Sporadically add ribbons of your choice. Use as many or as few as you’d like. Attach them the same way you did the tulle.
With green and F—3.75 mm hook, ch 13. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch. Place around neck and sew together.
Voila! You have a beautiful March Fairy.
If you need any help with this pattern, you can contact Jenny Miller directly for pattern support. You can either email her at jennymiller319@gmail[DOT]com or send her a message via her Facebook Page.
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