Purple People Eater Free Toy Monster Amigurumi

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Purple People Eater – Free toy monster Amigurumi

This crochet pattern is free to view online below. The full PDF download which includes in-depth, step by step, photographs and separate printer friendly version is available to purchase for only £1.20

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Soft and smooth 100% acrylic yarn available in a large variety of colours

Copyright: This crochet pattern was written, designed, and copyright held by, Ling Ryan/hookedonpatterns.com. You are  not permitted to copy, share, upload or redistribute this pattern in any way, this includes making video tutorials. Personal use only. You may sell products you have personally crocheted from using this pattern. Please credit Ling Ryan or hookedonpatterns.com as the designer if you do sell.  By using this page/crochet pattern you are agreeing to all T&Cs.

PURPLE PEOPLE EATER – Free Toy Amigurumi

Free toy monster Amigurumi - Purple People Eater Crochet PatternThis is my personal interpretation of the Purple People Eater Monster from the 1958 Sheb Wooley Song. Crochet this fun one-eyed, one-horned, flying purple people eater to dance with while singing along to the song!
(This monster also goes by the name: Gershom the friendly monster)

I have used 100% Acrylic yarn in Bulky (UK Chunky) weight with a 6mm hook and 5mm hook for the details. Gauge isn’t extremely important but you want to keep your stitches fairly tight to prevent stuffing from showing through. My gauge measures 9 sc x 9 rows for 2″ square. using Bulky weight and 6mm hook.
My monster measures approximately 10″ tall head to foot (12″ including horn) and 8″ wide across the wingspan. You can scale the monster up or down by using different yarn weights and hook sizes (a suitable hook size for yarn and 1 size down).

This pattern is written using US crochet terms. To help you read this pattern, the commas represent each stitch or the number of stitches after x. For example; [sc, inc,] would mean sc into next st, increase in next st. Or [sc x3, inc,] would mean sc each into the next 3 stitches, increase in the next st.


~ My other crochet patterns ~

Laticia Slouchy Socks Crochet Pattern Lace Cardigan Crochet Pattern Bellissa Tucked Hem Crochet Pattern


You will need

Chunky/Bulky yarn (approx. 150yds of Purple or main colour and a small amount in another colour, I have used Turquoise)
Small amount of Black and White yarn (for eye and details)
6mm and 5mm crochet hooks
Toy Stuffing (Polyester Fibrefill)
Yarn needle & scissors

Stitches/terms used in this pattern

(ch) Chain, (sl st) Slip stitch, (sc) Single crochet,
(hdc) Half Double crochet, (dc) Double crochet,
(inc) Increase – 2sc in same st
(dec) Decrease (invisible) – hook through front loop only of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook
Crab Stitch – Single crochet worked in reverse
Back Loop Only – Working into the back loops only of the previous round
S
urface Slip Stitch – Working a line of slip stitches on the surface of a piece – this is explained in detail within the pattern

Invisible Join – Technique used for fastening off rounds to give a smooth finish without a visible slip stitch knot – explained within the pattern
Numbers shown in ( ) indicates the number of stitches you should have at the end of the row/round.

Main body – Free toy monster Amigurumi

Purple People Eater Crochet PatternThe head, body and legs are worked in one piece, starting from the head. Keep your stitches tight as we will need to
stuff firmly to shape, use a smaller hook if needed. Using Purple yarn or your chosen main colour and 6mm hook, start with a magic ring and work in continuous rounds using a stitch marker to keep your first stitch,

R1. sc x6 into mr, pull closed (6)
R2. inc in each st (12)
R3. *sc, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (18)
R4. *sc x2, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (24)
R5. *sc x3, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (30)
R6. sc in each st (30)
R7. *sc x4, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (36)
R8.-R12. sc in each st (36 for 5 rounds)
R13. sc x15, inc x6, sc x15 (42)
R14. sc in each st (42)
R15. *sc x6, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (48)
R16. sc in each st (48)
R17. *sc x6, dec,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (42)
Purple People Eater Crochet PatternR18. sc x15, dec x6, sc x15 (36) Head section with muzzle complete.
​This round would represent the neck.
R19. *sc x5, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (42)
R20.-R21. sc in each st (42 for 2 rounds)
R22. sc x14, inc, *sc x2, inc,* repeat between * 4 more times, sc x12 (48)
R23.-R24. sc in each st (48 for 2 rounds) Stuff the head here, fill firmly ensuring you fill the shaped muzzle area.
R25. sc x16, inc, *sc x3, inc,* repeat between * 4 more times, sc x11 (54)
R26.-R27. sc in each st (54 for 2 rounds)
R28. *sc x8, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (60)
R29.-R31. sc in each st (60 for 3 rounds)
R32. *sc x8, dec,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (54)
R33. sc in each st (54)
R34. sc x18, dec, *sc x3, dec,* repeat between * 4 more times, sc x9 (48)
R35. sc x18, dec, *sc x2, dec,* repeat between * 4 more times, sc x8 (42)
R36. *sc x5, dec,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (36) Stuff the body firmly leaving a little space to continue working the piece.
Purple People Eater Crochet PatternR37. We will now make holes for the legs while continuing to close the base of the body, sc x5 to adjust the position of the round start bringing you to the middle of the back. Move your stitch marker to show the next stitch as your starting stitch. sc x4, ch4, skip the next 10 sts, sc x8, ch4, skip the next 10 sts, sc x4 (24)
R38. sc x2, dec, sc x2 along the back loops only of first 2 ch sts (1sc in each), dec going in the back loops only of next 2 ch sts, sc x2, dec, sc x2, dec, sc x2 along the back loops only of next 2 ch sts, dec going in the back loops only of next 2 ch sts, sc x2, dec (18)
R39. *sc, dec,* repeat between * a total of 6 times (12)
R40. dec x6 (6) Cut yarn and pull through. Use your yarn needle to weave under the front loop of each stitch and pull tight to close. Secure and weave in end.



Add legs – Free toy monster Amigurumi

Instructions differ slightly for the monster’s right and left legs, look out for # followed by -RIGHT and -LEFT next to round/row numbers for changes in instructions. We will join and work around the ch4 stitches made in R37., going in between the stitches made in R38. Looking along the ch4 (leg hole opening above), locate the 3 sc stitches (sc x2, dec sts) of R38. along middle of the ch4, counting from right to left, join yarn after the 3rd sc post along,

R1. sc in same place as join, sc in the same st used previously in R38., sc x10 along the previous skipped stitches of R37., sc in the same st previously used in R38., sc x3 along the ch4 of R37. before each of the 3 sc posts of R38., sl st into first sc to join (start next round in the same st as join) (16)
R2.-R5. sc in each st (16 for 4 rounds working continuously)
This should bring you in line with the middle of base closing circle of the body. Stuff firmly up the leg filling the bottom of the body and top of leg, giving a smooth transition. Ensure you finish fully stuffing the base of the body when working your second leg.

Purple People Eater Crochet Pattern#R6. -RIGHT We will now shape the heel, sl st, sc, inc x3, sc, sl st, turn leaving the remaining 9 stitches unworked (17- 8 stitches made (slip stitches do not count as stitches) and 9 unworked stitches)
#R6. -LEFT We will now shape the heel, sl st, turn and work the other direction, skip the sl st just made and sc in next st along, inc x3, sc, sl st, turn leaving the remaining 9 stitches unworked (17- 8 stitches made (slip stitches do not count as stitches and we will be skipping them) and 9 unworked stitches)
R7. sc x8 over the previous 8 stitches, sl st in the next st along of the previous unworked stitches, turn leaving 8 unworked remaining (16- 8 sts and 8 unworked)
R8. sc x8 over the previous 8 stitches, sl st in the next st along of the previous unworked stitches, turn leaving 7 unworked remaining (15- 8 sts and 7 unworked)
R9. sc x8 over the previous 8 stitches, sl st in the next st along of the previous unworked stitches, turn leaving 6 unworked remaining (14- 8 sts and 6 unworked)
#R10. -RIGHT sc x8 over the previous 8 stitches, sl st in the next st along of the previous unworked stitches, 5 unworked remaining do not turn (13- 8 sts and 5 unworked)

#R10. -LEFT sc x8 over the previous 8 stitches, sl st in the next st along of the previous unworked stitches, turn leaving 5 unworked remaining (13- 8 sts and 5 unworked)
#R11. -RIGHT sc x5 along the unworked stitches, sc x8 along the previous stitches (13) Stuff firmly to fill the bottom of leg and heel. The feet do turn outward slightly, don’t be worried that the hole is not facing directly in front of your monster.
#R11. -LEFT sc x8 over the previous 8 stitches, continue sc x5 along the unworked stitches (13) Stuff to fill the bottom of leg and heel.
R12.-R14. sc in each st (13 for 3 rounds) Start to stuff the foot.
#R15. -RIGHT We will now form the little toe, sc x4, skip the next 7 sts, sc x2 (6)
#R15. -LEFT We will now form the little toe, sc x5, skip the next 7 sts, sc (6)
R16. sc in each of the previous 6 sts (6)
R17. sc x6 (6) Cut yarn and pull through loop. Stuff the toe. Use your yarn needle to weave through the front loops of the 6 stitches and pull close. Secure and weave in end.
#R18. -RIGHT Now add the middle toe, join yarn on the top side of the foot in the same stitch used for the little toe, sc in same st as join, sc x2, skip the next 3 stitches, sc x2, sc in same st used for the little toe on the other side (6)
#R18. -LEFT Now add the middle toe, join yarn on the underside of the foot in the same stitch used for the little toe, sc in same st as join, sc x2, skip the next 3 stitches, sc x2, sc in same st used for the little toe on the other side (6)

Free toy monster AmigurumiR19. sc in each of the previous 6 sts (6)
R20. sc x6 (6) Cut yarn with a longer tail. Finish and stuff as before with the little toe. Use the excess tail end to weave and close up the gap formed in between the toes and any other large gaps.
#R21. -RIGHT Add the big toe, join yarn on the top side of the foot in the same stitch used for the middle toe, sc in same st as join, sc, inc, sc, sc in same st used for the middle toe on the other side (6)
#R21. -LEFT Add the big toe, join yarn on the underside of the foot in the same stitch used for the middle toe, sc in same st as join, sc, inc, sc, sc in same st used for the middle toe on the other side (6)
#R22. -RIGHT sc, inc, sc x4 (7)
#R22. -LEFT sc x4, inc, sc (7)
R23. sc x7 (7) Finish and stuff as with the middle toe. Use the excess tail end to weave through and fill in any larger gaps you may have around the heel area.



Arms – Free toy monster Amigurumi

Arms are made the same for left and right. Just attach them so the thumbs are positioned pointing up on either side. You can then shape the hands by turning the thumb and fingers in towards the body to give a more defined left and right hand appearance. The arms are made in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker to keep your first stitch.

Free toy monster AmigurumiMake 2 as follows using your 6mm hook:
Start with a magic ring,
R1. sc x5 into mr (5)
R2. inc in each st (10)
R3.-R6. sc in each st (10 for 4 rounds)
R7. inc, sc x8, inc (12)
R8. sc in each st (12)
R9. dec, sc x8, dec (10) Start stuffing the top of arm.
R10. sc in each st (10)
R11. dec, sc x8 (9)
R12. sc in each st (9)
R13. dec, sc x7 (8)
R14. sc in each st (8)
R15. inc, sc x3, inc, sc x3 (10)
R16. inc, sc x4, inc, sc x4 (12)
Free toy monster AmigurumiR17. sc in each st (12) Stuff the arm here leaving a little room to keep working.
R18. Work the thumb, sc x2, skip the next 6 sts, sc x4 (6)
R19. sc x5, inc – over the previous 6 sts (7)
R20. sc in each st (7)
R21. sc in each st (7) Cut yarn and pull through loop. Stuff the thumb. Use your yarn needle to weave through the front loops of the 7 stitches and pull close. Secure and weave in end.
R22. This round works the palm of hand, join yarn to the base of thumb (open side), sc in same st as join, sc in same st previously used for thumb, sc x6, sc in same st used for thumb on other side (9)

R23. Middle finger, sc x3, skip the next 3 sts, sc x3 (6)
R24.-R25. sc x6 over the previous 6 sts (6 for 2 rounds)
R26. sc in each st (6) Cut yarn with a longer tail. Finish and stuff as before. Use the excess tail end to weave and close up any larger gaps formed at the base of thumb.
R27. Little finger, join yarn to the base of middle finger, sc in same st as join, sc in same st previously used for middle finger, sc x3, sc in same st used (6)
R28.-R29. sc in each st (6 for 2 rounds)
R30. sc in each st (6) Cut yarn leaving an extra long tail for attaching. Finish and stuff as before, using tail to close any large gap in between the fingers. Feed the rest of tail end through the arm to the top of arm, ready for attaching. Attach arms to either side of the body just below the neck. Your thumbs should be pointing up and elbows down. Whip stitch in a U shape around the shoulder to attach.


~ Some of my other crochet patterns ~

Kiko Hooded Vest Crochet Pattern Knapsack Monsters Crochet Pattern American Football Coasters Crochet Pattern


Wings – free toy monster Amigurumi

Free wings crochet patternThe wings are made by making 2 pointy octagon shapes, edging to join in half, and adding details. Work in joined rounds for this piece. Work the first stitch in the same st you joined into. The ch1 at the beginning of each round do not count as stitches.

Make 2 as follows:
Using your new colour and 6mm hook, start with a magic ring,
R1. sc x8 into mr, pull close and sl st into first sc to join (8)
R2. ch1, inc in each st, sl st to join (16)
R3. ch1, *sc, inc,* repeat between * a total of 8 times, sl st to join (24)
R4. ch1, *sc x2, inc,* repeat between * a total of 8 times, sl st to join (32)
R5. ch1, *sc x3, inc,* repeat between * a total of 8 times, sl st to join (40)
R6. ch1,*hdc, sc x2, hdc, 2dc,* repeat between * a total of 8 times (48)

Finish with an invisible join – Cut yarn and pull through loop, use your yarn needle to feed the end through under both loops of the first st of round and back into the middle of last loop. Pull tight to make the first and last stitches touch. Secure end and weave in both ends.

Add edging and details with your main body colour using your smaller 5mm hook, Using the surface slip stitch technique, stitch from 1 point to the opposite point as follows:
Step 1. Make a slip knot in your main colour yarn, start at any 2dc point, hook through the 2nd dc along, pull up the slip knot.
Step 2. Turn to work towards the middle of the octagon. Hook through below in between the 2 dc stitches, pull up a loop and slip through loop on hook. Continue slip stitching by hooking through under each round in a straight line towards the centre.
Step 3. Hook through the centre of the magic ring. Continue straight towards the opposite point, going in between the 2 dc stitches and finishing in the top of 2nd dc stitch.
Step 4. Fold the octagon along the slip stitch line you just made, hook through the dc stitches of both sides and sc together, sc again in the same sts, sc x4 joining the 2 sides along, 2sc x2 joining the next 2 dc sts, sc x4, 2sc x2, sc x4, 2sc x2, sc x4, 2sc joining the last sts, now continue to sc along the surface slip stitches along the folded line. Cut yarn (leaving a long tail for the Right Wing) and finish with an invisible join as with the octagon (weave in end for Left Wing).
Step 5. Add the line detail by working 3 surface slip stitch lines from the middle of the octagon circle, out towards each of the points. Just like before, but working through both layers of the folded wing. Weave in the ends.

Free toy monster AmigurumiUse your long tail end and yarn needle to attach both wings to the back of your monster. Wings are positioned with pointy parts downwards. Attach the Right Wing (one with long tail) by positioning the point at yarn tail in the middle of the monster’s back, just below the neck. Stitch just the corner of this point to the back in a triangle shape returning to the starting position. This will leave the rest of the wing able to flap. Position the Left Wing on the other side and stitch the corner. Secure, cut excess and weave in end.



Eye – Free toy monster Amigurumi

We will be making the eye ball and eye socket separately and then join to form the eye with eyelid.

Eyeball:
Using your smaller 5mm hook, start with a magic ring using Black yarn,
R1. sc x6 into mr, pull closed, cut yarn and join to fist sc with an invisible join (as instructed before on the wings) (6)
R2. Using White yarn, join with a sc in any st (with slip knot on hook, hook through a stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both loops), sc again in same st, inc in each remaining st, sl st into first sc (the joining sc st) to join (12)
R3. *sc, inc,* repeat a total of 6 times, sl st into first sc to join (18)
R4. sc in each st, cut yarn and finish with invisible join, weave in ends (18)

Iris:
Using another colour (I have used my wings colour), add the iris. We do this by making a zig zag surface slip stitch. We will be working around the centre black stitches of the eyeball. Start with a slip knot in yarn, hook through at a “spike” of the black stitches, pull up the slip knot, *hook through the next “dip” of the black stitches, yo and pull up a loop, slip through loop on hook, hook through the next “spike”, yo and pull up a loop, slip through loop on hook,* repeat between * all the way around the black circle, finishing in the same “spike” you started on. Cut yarn and pull through the last loop. Bring the tail end back through to the back of work. Secure starting and tail ends by tying them together, cut excess but no need to weave in.

Eye socket and join:
Using your main colour and still using your smaller 5mm hook, start with a magic ring,
R1. sc x6 into mr, sl st into first sc to join (6)
R2. inc x6, sl st to join (12)
R3. *sc, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, sl st to join (18)
R4. Swap over to your larger 6mm hook. Place your eyeball on top of working piece. hook through a White eyeball stitch and the working eye socket st and sc the two pieces together, continue to sc the pieces together (1 sc in each 2 corresponding stitches) until just over half way around, stuff the eyeball before continuing sc to seal, sl st into first sc to join (18)
R5. sl st in the front loop only of each st, sl st into first to join going through both loops (18)
R6. Working in both loops of the previous slip stitches, skip the st you just joined into and sc in the next st along, hdc, dc x3, hdc, sc, sl st, fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching, leaving the remaining 10 slip stitches unworked (8 worked) Weave in your starting end.

Use your yarn needle and tail end to attach on to the head just above the protruding muzzle of your monster. I have used a running stitch behind the slip stitches of eye socket and through the head for a neat join, going under the eyelid.

Free toy monster Amigurumi - Purple People Eater Crochet Pattern Free toy monster Amigurumi - Purple People Eater Crochet Pattern

Free toy monster Amigurumi - Purple People Eater Crochet PatternFor eyelashes, cut 3 lengths of yarn, hook through a dc stitch of the eyelid from the top down, fold the length of yarn in half and pull through the fold to make a loop on hook, then pull through the two ends of yarn. Repeat for the other 2 dc stitches. Cut the ends to the desired length and unravel the plies of yarn for a fluffier look.

Horn – Free toy monster Amigurumi

Free toy monster Amigurumi - Purple People Eater Crochet PatternWork this piece into the back loops only of the previous round to create the spiral detail.
​Using your smaller 5mm hook size and chosen horn colour, start with a magic ring,
R1. sc x6 into mr, sl st into first sc to join (6)
R2. Now work in continuous rounds, work around your starting end to weave in as you go (this will help stiffen the base), sc x6 in the back loops only (6)
R3. sc x6 in the back loops only (6)
R4. sc x2, inc, sc x2, inc in back loops only (8)
R5. sc x8 in the back loops only (8)
R6. sc x3, inc, sc x3, inc in back loops only (10)
R7. sc x10 in the back loops only (10)

R8. *sc, inc,* repeat between * a total of 5 times in the back loops only (15)
R9. sc x15 in the back loops only (15)
R10. sc x15 in the back loops only, sl st into back loop of first sc to level off (15)
R11. work in both loops for this round. crab stitch (reverse single crochet) x15 back around the edge (15)
Cut yarn leaving an extra long tail for attaching and pull through. Pass your end through the first crab stitch to join, secure and feed through to the base of horn.
Attach to the top of head, over the original starting magic ring circle.

Mouth and teeth details

Free toy monster AmigurumiUsing your yarn needle and a length of Black yarn, backstitch a line across the middle of the protruding muzzle area. This will be on top of the 3rd row of stitches up from the neck. Stitch a line approximately the width of the eye. Add diagonal stitches going 1 row up on the edges. Use White yarn to embroider teeth above this mouth line. I have made triangle shapes making stitches over 2 rows in height and 1 stitch in width. You can add any number of teeth you like in any placement. I have opted for one at either side.


Bear Crochet PatternCongratulations!
You have completed my free toy monster Amigurumi

Check out these cute bears!

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