Bonnie Tunic Free Sweater Crochet Pattern

Sharing is caring!

I’m excited to share this gorgeous sweater crochet pattern, designed by Sarah Wright of I Need It Crochet, especially for Hooked On Patterns!

Sarah has designed the Bonnie Tunic to be size inclusive, with ladies sizes starting from X-Small through to 5X-Large.

Free Textured Sweater Crochet Pattern

A photo of Sarah Wright wearing her Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern design

Sarah has used a combination of bead stitches, mixed cluster stitches, and working in the 3rd loops of hdc stitches to create this wonderfully textured angular tunic.

I love this design so much, I couldn’t resist making one for myself straight away! Here’s one I made using Deramores Studio Aran acrylic yarn in Punch.

A close up shot of the Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern showing the detail of the textured stitches

A Free To View Tunic Pattern – Pin It For Later!

The full crochet pattern is free-to-view below, including all 9 sizes. Keep scrolling to get started, or Pin it to save it for later!

A Pinterest image for the Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern featuring Sarah Wright modelling a blue version of the tunic sweater with the words Free Crochet Pattern

Get The Printable PDF Download:

If you prefer to work from printed patterns, you can purchase the Bonnie Tunic PDF Download for just £2.50. Click on the image below to buy now!

~ Also available to buy at: ~

 Hooked On Patterns at Ravelry       Etsy at Hookedonpatterns.com

All crochet patterns from Hooked On Patterns are written using US crochet terms.

Disclosure: This post contains advertisements and affiliate links.

Copyright: This Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern was designed by Sarah Wright for Hooked On Patterns. Copyright held by Hooked On Patterns. You are not permitted to copy, share, edit, upload or redistribute this pattern in any way, this includes making video tutorials or translating into other languages. Personal use only. You may sell products you have personally crocheted from using this pattern. Please credit Hooked On Patterns if you do sell. By using this page/crochet pattern you are agreeing to all T&Cs.

MAIN MENU

Use this handy jump-to menu, to quickly get back to where you left off.


What You’ll Need to Make The Bonnie Tunic

Sarah has used Caron Simply Soft, which is a 100% Acrylic, #4 Worsted weight yarn.
Any yarn of similar weight would work. You will need approximately 1100 (1200, 1300, 1400,1500, 1600, 1700, 1800, 1900) yards.

You will also need a 5.5mm crochet hook, a Stitch Marker, Yarn Needle, Scissors, and a Measuring Tape.

Pattern Notes for making the Free Tunic Sweater

Crochet Gauge for the Bonnie Tunic Pattern:

There will be points within the pattern where you should measure for gauge. Be sure to check your gauge. It will save you much time and heartache. Start with a 5.5mm and your Worsted weight yarn, if necessary, adjust your hook accordingly.

Size Guide for the Bonnie Tunic Crochet Pattern:

Use the chart below to choose your size. Choose your size according to your largest measurement (bust/waist/hips) and how you would like the sweater to fit. For a close-fitting sweater, choose the size closest to your largest measurement. For a loose sweater, choose a size 2-3” larger.

Click to enlarge

The length and arm circumference of this tunic can be customised for the perfect fit.

The pattern will be following the X-Small size as standard with changes to instructions for the other sizes shown in colour coded text to make it easier to follow your size.

Understanding the beginning chains and stitches:

  • ch1 and ch2 at the beginning of a row is never considered a stitch.
  • ch3 at the beginning of a row is considered a dc stitch.
  • The 1st stitch is always the stitch that contains the starting chain.

Crochet Stitches & Terms Used For the Bonnie Tunic

This pattern is written using US crochet terms. Please refer to my Crochet Terms Conversion Chart for help with translating into UK terms.

The pattern uses the following basic US crochet stitches:
(sk) Skip, (sp) Space, (st) Stitch, (sl st) Slip Stitch, (ch) Chain, (sc) Single Crochet, (hdc) Half Double Crochet, (dc) Double Crochet,
(FPdc) Front Post Double Crochet,
(BPdc) Back Post Double Crochet,
(sc2tog) Single Crochet 2 Together,
(sc3tog) Single Crochet 3 Together,
(hdc2tog) = Half Double Crochet 2 Together,
(hdc3tog) = Half Double Crochet 3 Together,
(dc2tog) = Double Crochet 2 Together,
(dc3tog) = Double Crochet 3 Together,

And the following special stitches which will be explained in detail below:
(3rd LO) 3rd Loop Only
(Bd) Bead Stitch
(Mc) Mixed Cluster Stitch

Instructions shown from * to ** are pattern sequences which will be repeated.

Instructions shown within [ ] are to be worked in the same stitch/space.

Instructions shown within { } are stitch sequences to be repeated for the indicated number of times.

Numbers shown in ( ) at the end of each row/round indicates the number of stitches you should have at the end of that row/round.


Would you rather work from a printable ad-free PDF download? BUY NOW for only £2.50!

~ Also available to buy at: ~

 Hooked On Patterns at Ravelry       Etsy at Hookedonpatterns.com


Working In The 3rd Loop Only – Crochet Stitch Tutorial

For this pattern, you will be working in the 3rd loops only of hdc stitch for some rows.

This 3rd loop is the horizontal bar that runs along the front and back of a hdc row. The 3rd loop we will be working into for this pattern is located on the back of the hdc stitch right after you complete it, but once you turn your work, it will appear on the front.

It is located just below the normal front and back loops of the top of your stitches, indicated by the pin in the first image below.

When you work a series of stitches into this 3rd loop, it pushes the tops of your stitches forward, which results in a braided detail effect. You want that braided detail to show up on the front of your work.

A 4 part instructional photo tutorial showing how to crochet hdc in the 3rd loop only

Working The Bead Stitch – Crochet Stitch Tutorial

To crochet a Bead Stitch (Bd), you begin by making a dc stitch. To create the main bulk of the ‘bead’, you are basically making a hdc3tog around the post of the dc you just made.

Ie. Yarn over, insert your hook around the dc stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat this 2 more times and you should end up with 7 loops on your hook. You then need to yarn over and pull through all 7 loops to complete the Bead Stitch.

Aim to keep the tension in your loops even and relatively the same size, so that your Bead Stitches look neat and consistent.

A 4 part instructional photo tutorial showing how to crochet the Bead Stitch

Working the Mixed Cluster Stitch – Crochet Stitch Tutorial

A Mixed Cluster Stitch (Mc) is made across 3 stitches, combining a dc stitch and 2 hdc stitches together into 1 cluster with a skipped stitch in between. Although it’s made over 3 stitches, you reuse the last stitch you’ve worked into, to begin the next Mixed Cluster stitch, so you’ll only be using 2 stitches of the row at a time.

*Start by working the beginning of a dc stitch – Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Now, skip the next stitch and begin working a hdc2tog stitch in the same following stitch – Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook). Finish off by yarning over and pulling through all 6 loops on the hook, and close off the stitch with a ch1.**

To work the next Mixed Cluster Stitch, you’ll start in the same stitch you’ve just finished in, and repeat from * to ** above.

As the Mixed Cluster Stitch consists of a main body, plus a closing chain 1, each Mc stitch is counted as 2 stitches.

A 4 part instructional photo tutorial showing how to crochet the Mixed Cluster Stitch

Mixed Cluster In The Round:
Working the Mixed Cluster Stitch in the round will vary slightly. To begin, you will ch1. This ch1 does not count as a stitch. When you create your first Mc, you will begin in the same stitch you’ve just chained up from. Complete your Mc stitch as instructed in the above tutorial and continue working your Mc stitches as normal all the way around until you have only 1 stitch left unworked. Then, you will work your final Mc. The 2nd half of your final Mc will be worked into the same stitch you began your first Mc with. To finish the round, sl st into the 1st Mc stitch to join.

Now, over to Sarah for the Bonnie Tunic Crochet Pattern…

“When I design a new pattern, I always aim for comfort and style. This piece is right on target. It is warm but not stifling. The flattering shape is perfect for going out, while the comfortable fit is great for staying in. Who says you can’t have it both ways?”


If you would like to purchase the ad-free printable download, click below to BUY NOW for only £2.50!

~ Also available to buy at: ~

 Hooked On Patterns at Ravelry       Etsy at Hookedonpatterns.com


The Construction of the Bonnie Tunic

We will begin at the center back, working outwards and down in rows. Then, we will chain to create the neck hole and begin working the front and back. Once we have the correct width, we will create the arm holes on the front and back. Next, we will work the lower body to the desired length and add the bottom trim. Finally, we will add the sleeves and finish off the neckline.

Crocheting the Upper Body of the Tunic Sweater

Note: To make counting your stitches easier, divide the total stitch count by 2. That’s how many stitches you should have per side.

R1.

(Wrong Side) ch3, [3dc, ch1, 4dc] into the ring, turn.   (8 sts + ch1)

R2.

(Right Side) ch1, 2hdc in the 1st st, hdc x3, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x3, 2hdc in the top of the previous ch3, turn.   (14 sts + ch1)

R3.

Working this row into the 3rd LO: ch3, dc in the 1st st, dc x6, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x6, 2dc in the last st, turn.   (20 sts + ch1)

R4.

ch3, bd in the 1st st, sk1 st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st,} x4 (you should have 1 sk st before the ch1), [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st,} x5 (not counting the last sk st), dc in the top of the previous ch3, turn.   (26 sts + ch1)

R5.

ch1, 2hdc in the 1st st, hdc x12, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x12, 2hdc in the top of the previous ch3, turn.   (32 sts + ch1)

Gauge Check: Your triangle should measure 5½” W x 3½” H.

R6.

ch1, 2hdc in the 1st st, beginning in the same st Mc x7 across, hdc, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc, beginning in the next st Mc x7, 2hdc in the same st as last Mc ended, turn.   (38 sts + ch1)

R7.

ch1, 2hdc in the 1st st, hdc x18, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x18, 2hdc in the last st, turn.   (44 sts + ch1)

R8.

ch3, bd in the 1st st, sk1 st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st,} x10 (you should have 1 sk st before the ch1), [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st,} x11 (not counting the last sk st), dc in the last st, turn.   (50 sts + ch1)

Gauge Check: Your triangle should now measure 9½” W x 5” H.

R9.

ch1, 2hdc in the 1st st, hdc x24, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x24, 2hdc in the last st, ch60, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, turn.   (56 sts + ch1 + ch60)

Your work should now look like this:

A photo showing how the Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern should look after row 9.

We will now be working in the round but still turning at the end of each round.
Note: To make counting your stitches easier, divide the total stitch count by 4. That’s how many stitches you should have per side.

R10.

ch1, hdc in the 1st st, [hdc, ch1, hdc] in the 1st ch, hdc x28 along the chs, 2hdc in the next ch, ch1, 2hdc in the next ch, hdc x28, [hdc, ch1, hdc] in the last ch, hdc x28, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x27, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, sl st into the next st, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (124 sts + 4 ch1)

Note: You will notice that I have instructed you to place a st marker into a certain sl st. This is to mark where your 1st st is after the ch1 sp. When designing this pattern, I found it very hard to keep track of this st once I finished a round and turned my work. So I used a st marker to eliminate confusion. At the end of every round from here on, you will need to move your st marker to the appropriate sl st. I will instruct you to do so.

R11.

Working this round in the 3rd LO: ch4, dc in the same ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc), *dc x31, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x31,** [dc, ch1, dc] in the ch1 sp, repeat from * to **, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch4 to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (136 sts + 4 ch1)

R12.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x34, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x34,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (148 sts + 4 ch1)

R13.

Working this round in the 3rd LO: ch4, dc in the same ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc), *dc x37, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x37,** [dc, ch1, dc] in the ch1 sp, repeat from * to **, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch4 to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (160 sts + 4 ch1)

Size XS only: Skip R14-R20. Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn. Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

R14.

ch4, dc in the same ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc), *{Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x20, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x20,** [dc, ch1, dc] in the ch1 sp, repeat from * to **, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch4 to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (172 sts + 4 ch1)

Size S only: Skip R15-R20. Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn. Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

R15.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x43, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x43,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (184 sts + 4 ch1)

R16.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the same st Mc x22, hdc in the next st, [2hdc, ch1 2hdc] in ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the next st Mc x22, hdc in the same st as last Mc ended in,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st join, place st marker, sl st loosely into ch1 sp, turn.   (196 sts + 4 ch1)

Size M only: Skip R17-R20. Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn. Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

R17.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x49, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x49,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (208 sts + 4 ch1)

R18.

ch4, dc in the same ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc), *{Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x26, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x26,** [dc, ch1, dc] in the ch1 sp, repeat from * to **, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch4 to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (220 sts + 4 ch1)

Size L only: Skip R19-R20. Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn.
Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

R19.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x55, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x55,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (232 sts + 4 ch1)

R20.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x58, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x58,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (244 sts + 4 ch1)

Size XL only: Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn.
Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

The pattern sequence design, from R11-R20, will repeat from here for the next 4 sizes. Continue reading below until you reach your size, but note that the row numbers will be repeated with updated stitch counts. This will become relevant when working the rest of the pattern.

R11.

Working this round in the 3rd LO: ch4, dc in the same ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc), *dc x61, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x61,** [dc, ch1, dc] in the ch1 sp, repeat from * to **, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch4 to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (256 sts + 4 ch1)

R12.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x64, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x64,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (268 sts + 4 ch1)

Size 2XL only: Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn. Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

R13.

Working this round in the 3rd LO: ch4, dc in the same ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc), *dc x67, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x67,** [dc, ch1, dc] in the ch1 sp, repeat from * to **, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch4 to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (280 sts + 4 ch1)

Size 3XL only: Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn. Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

R14.

ch4, dc in the same ch1 sp (counts as dc, ch1, dc), *{Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x35, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x35,** [dc, ch1, dc] in the ch1 sp, repeat from * to **, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch4 to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (292 sts + 4 ch1)

R15.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x73, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x73,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, sl st loosely into the ch1 sp, turn.   (304 sts + 4 ch1)

Size 4XL only: Do not sl st into the ch1 sp on your last round, but do turn. Continue onto instructions for the Arm Section.

R16.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the same st Mc x37, hdc in the next st, [2hdc, ch1 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the next st Mc x37, hdc in the same st as last Mc ended in,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st join, place st marker, sl st loosely into ch1 sp, turn.   (316 sts + 4 ch1)

R17.

ch1, *[hdc, ch1, hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x79,** repeat from * to **, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, place st marker, turn.   (328 sts + 4 ch1)

Size 5XL Note: You do not sl st into the ch1 space at the end of this final round.

Your work should look something like this:

A photo showing how the Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern should look after completing the upper body section.

You should have a total of 160 (172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328) sts + 4 ch1. The width across your project (as indicated by the measuring tape in the image above) should measure 14” (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30).


~ More ladieswear patterns! ~

A thumbnail image of the Aviva Summer Top crochet patternA thumbnail image of the Flory Lace Cardigan crochet pattern


Crocheting the Arms Section of the Bonnie Tunic

Now that our sweater is the ideal width, we are going to create the arm holes. To do this we will work straight downwards in rows. We will be working decreases at the beginning and end with increases in the middle, so your final stitch count will stay the same throughout.

Depending on what size you are making, you may be working the back arm rows or the front arm rows.

I have provided many options for sleeve sizes, and you may choose whichever sleeve size best suits you, regardless of what body size you have chosen. The following instructions will result in a sleeve circumference of 10¼” (11½”, 12½”, 13½”, 14½”, 15¾”, 16¾”, 18”, 19”, 20”, 21”, 22¼”).

Note: To make counting your stitches easier, divide the total stitch count by 2. That’s how many stitches you should have per side.

Set Up Row for the Bonnie Tunic Arm Section:

You will only work 1 of the rows below. I have numbered the rows to correspond with the previous rounds. You’ll be working the row number that comes after the round you’ve just finished to continue the stitch pattern repeat. Follow the instructions for your size below and take note of the row number to carry forward for the rest of the arm rows.

Size XS: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R14.

R14.

ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as dc3tog), dc in the next st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18, dc in the next st, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80 sts + ch1)

Size S: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R15.

R15.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x40, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x40, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (86 sts + ch1)

Size M: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R17.

R17.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x46, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x46, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (98 sts + ch1)

Size L: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R19.

R19.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x52, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x52, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (110 sts + ch1)

Size XL: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R11.

R11.

Working this row in the 3rd LO: ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a dc3tog), dc x58, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x58, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn. (122 sts + ch1)

Size 2XL: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R13.

R13.

Working this row in the 3rd LO: ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a dc3tog), dc x64, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x64, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn. (134 sts + ch1)

Size 3XL: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R14.

R14.

ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as dc3tog), dc in the next st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x33, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x33, dc in the next st, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn. (140 sts + ch1)

Size 4XL: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R16.

R16.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as hdc3tog), hdc x2, beginning in the same as last st Mc x35, hdc in next st, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the next st Mc x35, hdc in the same st the last Mc ended in, hdc in the next st, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn. (152 sts + ch1)

Size 5XL: You’ll be working the stitch pattern of R18.

R18.

ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as dc3tog), dc in the next st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x39, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x39, dc in the next st, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn. (164 sts + ch1)

Crocheting the Arm Rows of the Bonnie Tunic:

Once you have completed the Set Up Row, you will work the rows below. Again, I have numbered the rows to correspond with the previous rows. Begin with the row number that comes after the row number you’ve just finished, then work the subsequent rows. For example, if you’ve just finished R14, you will begin with R15 below. If you’ve just finished R20, you will begin with R11 below.

R11.

Working this row in the 3rd LO: ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a dc3tog),
dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 86, 98, 110, 122, 134, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R12.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 86, 98, 110, 122, 134, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R13.

Working this row in the 3rd LO: ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a dc3tog),
dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 86, 98, 110, 122, 134, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R14.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as dc3tog), {Bd in the next st, sk1 st}  x20/23/26/29/32, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st}  x20/23/26/29/32, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (86, 98, 110, 122, 134 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as dc3tog), dc in the next st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, dc in the next st, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R15.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 86, 98, 110, 122, 134, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R16.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as hdc3tog), hdc in the next st, beginning in the same st Mc x19/22/25/28/31, hdc in the next st, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the next st Mc x19/22/25/28/31, hdc in the same st as the last mc ended in, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (86, 98, 110, 122, 134 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as hdc3tog), hdc x2, beginning in the same as last st Mc x17/32/35/38, hdc in the next st, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the next st Mc x17/32/35/38, hdc in the same st the last Mc ended in, hdc in the next st, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R17.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 86, 98, 110, 122, 134, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R18.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as dc3tog), {Bd in the next st, sk1 st}  x20/23/26/29/32, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st}  x20/23/26/29/32, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (86, 98, 110, 122, 134 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as dc3tog), dc in the next st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, dc in the next st, dc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R19.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 86, 98, 110, 122, 134, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

R20.

ch1, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as a hdc3tog), hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, hdc3tog over the last 3 sts, turn.   (80, 86, 98, 110, 122, 134, 140, 152, 164 sts + ch1) 

Repeat rows R11 – R20 until you have a total of 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows, including the Set Up Row. This will give you a sleeve circumference of 10¼” (11½”, 12½”, 13½”, 14½”, 15¾”, 16¾”, 18”, 19”, 20”, 21”, 22¼”). Bind Off. Take note of the row number you finished on to carry forward later.

Your project should now look something like this:

A photo showing how the Bonnie Tunic pattern should look after completing one side of the arms section.

Keep in mind that your arm rows may be on the front or the back at this point. We will now work the arm rows for the other side of your sweater. This will be done in the exact same way you did for the first side.

  • Make sure you are facing the right way. You will know that the correct side is facing you, by the direction of the top loops of your stitches. If you’re right-handed, they should be pointing to the left (like this: <<<), or vice versa for left-handed.
  • Attach your yarn in the first stitch on the other side of your work. Do not attach in the ch1 sp.
  • Just as you did with the first side, start with the Set Up Row, then work the Arm Rows. You should be starting with the same row and working the same amount of rows that you did for the first side. Do not bind off.
  • Your project should now look something like this:

A photo of how the Bonnie Tunic should look after completing both arm sections.

Crocheting the Lower Body of the Tunic Sweater

Now that the Upper body is complete, we will join at the underarms and work the lower body in the round. You will still turn at the end of each round.

Joining the upper body of the Bonnie Tunic:

  • Fold your work over, point to point. It doesn’t matter if the front or back is facing you.
  • Use your working yarn and hook to sl st into the 1st st on the other side.
  • Use the yarn tail end on the other side to attach to the last stitch on the other side. Tie a secure knot here.
  • That’s it! You should now have the upper body of a sweater with 2 arm holes and a neck hole. It should look similar to this:

A photo showing how the Bonnie Tunic should look after joining the upper body.

Crocheting in the round for the lower body:

We will now work the lower body in the round, starting from where you just joined with your hook. Make sure the correct side is facing you, by checking the directions of the stitch tops, as before.

Again, I have numbered the rows to correspond with the previous rows. Begin with the row number that comes after the row you just finished, then work the subsequent rows. For example, if you’ve just finished R14, you will begin with R15 below. If you’ve just finished R20, you will begin with R11 below.

Note: To make counting your stitches easier, divide the total stitch count by 4. That’s how many stitches you should have per side.

R11.

Working this row in the 3rd LO: ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, ** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

R12.

ch1, *hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79,** hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc2tog over last 2 sts (hdc2tog + starting ch1 counts as hdc3tog), sl st into the 1sthdc3tog st to join, turn.  (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

R13.

Working this row in the 3rd LO: ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, *dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.  (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

R14.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x20/23/26/29/32, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st}  x20/23/26/29/32,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (172, 196, 220, 244, 268 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, dc in the next st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, dc in the next st,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 280, 304, 328 sts + ch1) 

R15.

ch1, *hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79,** hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts (hdc2tog + starting ch1 counts as hdc3tog), sl st into the 1st hdc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

R16.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch1, *hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, hdc in the next st, beginning in the same st
Mc x19/22/25/28/31, hdc in the next st, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the next st Mc x19/22/25/28/31, hdc in the same st as the last Mc ended in,** hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts (hdc2tog + starting ch1 counts as hdc3tog), sl st into the 1st hdc3tog st to join, turn.    (172, 196, 220, 244, 268 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch1, *hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, hdc x2, beginning in the same as last st Mc x17/32/35/38, hdc in the next st, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc in the next st, beginning in the next st Mc x17/32/35/38, hdc in the same st the last Mc ended in, hdc in the next st,** hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts (hdc2tog + starting ch1 counts as hdc3tog), sl st into the 1st hdc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 280, 304, 328 sts + ch1)

R17.

ch1, *hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79,** hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts (hdc2tog + starting ch1 counts as hdc3tog), sl st into the 1st hdc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

R18.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x20/23/26/29/32, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st}  x20/23/26/29/32,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (172, 196, 220, 244, 268 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, dc in the next st, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, [Bd, ch1, Bd] in the ch1 sp, {Bd in the next st, sk1 st} x18/33/36/39, dc in the next st,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 280, 304, 328 sts + ch1) 

R19.

ch1, *hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79,** hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts (hdc2tog + starting ch1 counts as hdc3tog), sl st into the 1st hdc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

R20.

ch1, *hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2hdc, ch1, 2hdc] in the ch1 sp, hdc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79,** hdc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts (hdc2tog + starting ch1 counts as hdc3tog), sl st into the 1st hdc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

Repeat rounds R11 – R20 until you have achieved the desired length minus 2”. You will need to end on a repeat of round R12 or R20. Do not bind off.

Crocheting the bottom trim of the Bonnie Tunic:

R1.

Working this row in the 3rd LO: ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, dc x37/40/46/52/58/64/67/73/79, ** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

R2.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, {BPdc around the next st, FPdc around the next st,} x20/23/26/29/32, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, {FPdc around the next st, BPdc around the next st,} x20/23/26/29/32,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (172, 196, 220, 244, 268 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, FPdc around the next st, {BPdc around the next st, FPdc around the next st,} x18/33/36/39, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, {FPdc around the next st, BPdc around the next st,} x18/33/36/39, FPdc around the next st,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 280, 304, 328 sts + ch1) 

R3.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, {FPdc around the next st, BPdc around the next st,} x20/23/26/29/32, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, {BPdc around the next st, FPdc around the next st,} x20/23/26/29/32,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (172, 196, 220, 244, 268 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, BPdc around the next st, {FPdc around the next st, BPdc around the next st,} x18/33/36/39, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, {BPdc around the next st, FPdc around the next st,} x18/33/36/39, BPdc around the next st,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 280, 304, 328 sts + ch1) 

R4.

Work this round according to your size.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, & 2XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, {BPdc around the next st, FPdc around the next st,} x20/23/26/29/32, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, {FPdc around the next st, BPdc around the next st,} x20/23/26/29/32,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (172, 196, 220, 244, 268 sts + ch1)

Sizes XS, 3XL, 4XL, & 5XL:
ch2, *dc3tog over the next 3 sts, FPdc around the next st, {BPdc around the next st, FPdc around the next st,} x18/33/36/39, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in the ch1 sp, {FPdc around the next st, BPdc around the next st,} x18/33/36/39, FPdc around the next st,** dc3tog over the next 3 sts, repeat from * to **, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (dc2tog + starting ch2 counts as dc3tog), sl st into the 1st dc3tog st to join, turn.   (160, 280, 304, 328 sts + ch1) 

R5.

ch1, *sc2tog over the next 2 sts, sc x38/41/47/53/59/65/68/74/80, [sc, ch1, sc] in the ch1 sp, sc x38/41/47/53/59/65/68/74/80,** sc2tog over the next 2 sts, repeat from * to **, sc2tog over the last st and st with the starting ch1, sl st into the 1st sc2tog st to join. Bind off.   (160, 172, 196, 220, 244, 268, 280, 304, 328 sts + 2 ch1) 

Adding sleeves to the Crochet Bonnie Tunic

The sleeves are worked in the round, turning at the end of each round. Follow the instructions that match the arm size you decided on at the Arm Rows section. The following instructions will result in a sleeve circumference of 10¼” (11½”, 12½”, 13½”, 14½”, 15¾”, 16¾”, 18”, 19”, 20”, 21”, 22¼”).

With the right side of your sweater facing you, join your yarn anywhere near the bottom of the armhole.

R1.

ch1, hdc around the arm opening – placing 2 hdc in the end of every row and 2 hdc in the ch1 sp at the top of the shoulder, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, turn.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R2.

Working this round in the 3rd LO: ch3, dc in the next st and each st around, sl st into the top of the beginning ch3 to join, turn. (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R3.

ch2, *Bd in the next st, sk1 st,** repeat from * to ** around, sl st into the 1st st to join, turn.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R4.

ch1, hdc in the 1st st and each st around, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, turn. (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R5.

ch1, beginning in the same st Mc around (your last Mc will end in the same st as the beginning ch1), sl st into the 1st Mc st join, turn.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R6.

ch1, hdc in the 1st st and each st around, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, turn. (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R7.

ch2, *Bd in the next st, sk1 st,** repeat from * to ** around, sl st into the 1st st to join, turn.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R8.

ch1, hdc in the 1st st and each st around, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, turn. (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R9.

ch1, hdc in the 1st st and each st around, sl st into the 1st hdc st to join, turn.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R10.

Working this round in the 3rd LO: ch3, dc in the next st and each st around, sl st into the top of the beginning ch3 to join, turn. (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R11.

ch2, FPdc around the 1st st, BPdc around the next st, *FPdc around the next st, BPdc
around the next st, ** repeat from * to ** around, sl st into the first FPdc st to join, turn.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R12.

ch2, BPdc around the 1st st, FPdc around the next st, *BPdc around the next st, FPdc around the next st, ** repeat from * to ** around, sl st into the first BPdc st to join, turn.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

R13.

ch1, sc in the 1st st and each st around, sl st into the 1st sc st join. Bind off.   (38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts)

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Finishing the Neck Trim of Your Crochet Sweater

With the right side of your sweater facing you, join your yarn into the ch4 ring at the back of the neck.

R1.

ch3, dc into the ring, work 2 dc into the end of each of the next 8 rows, dc2tog in the end of the next row, dc3tog over the next 3 chs, dc x24, dc3tog over the next 3 chs, dc3tog over the next 3 chs, dc x24, dc3tog over the last 3 chs, dc2tog in the end of the next row, work 2 dc into the end of each of the last 8 rows, sl st into the top of the beginning ch3 to join, do not turn. (88 sts)

R2.

ch1, sc in the 1st st and the next 16 sts, sc2tog over the next 2 st, sc2tog over the next 2 st, sc x21, sc3tog over the next 3 sts, sc3tog over the next 3 sts, sc x21, sc2tog over the next 2 sts, sc2tog over the next 2 sts, sc x15, sl st into the 1st sc st join. Bind off. (80 sts)

Congratulations!

Weave in your ends, and you’re done!

A photo of Sarah Wright wearing her Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern design.

I hope you’ve enjoyed making this free Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern. You can find more designs by Sarah Wright at ineeditcrochet.com.

Please show your support and help me share this free pattern by simply pinning a Pin, or sharing a link with your crochet friends!

A Pinterest image for the Bonnie Tunic crochet pattern featuring a pink version of the sweater modelled on a mannequin, with the words Free Crochet Pattern

You can browse through all of my other crochet patterns here, including many more free patterns.

SUBSCRIBE TO MY FREE NEWSLETTER
Find out about new pattern releases and special offers!


THANK YOU FOR VISITING HOOKEDONPATTERNS.COM
FOR MORE, CHECK OUT FREE CROCHET PATTERNS!


©​ Copyright L.Ryan, Hooked On Patterns.com

BACK TO CROCHET BLOG

You can view the Google Story for the Bonnie Sweater Free Crochet Pattern, here.

2 thoughts on “Bonnie Tunic Free Sweater Crochet Pattern”

Leave a comment