FREE BABY MITTENS CROCHET PATTERN

Keep baby toasty this winter with my free baby mittens crochet pattern. These cosy little mittens feature a ribbed double cuff and textured stitch pattern.

They match my previous ladies-sized Cute & Cosy Free Crochet Mittens pattern, so you can make an adorable Mommy & Baby set!

This pattern includes 2 baby sizes, designed without separate thumbs. Size A for approx. 6-12 months, and Size B for approx. 12-18 months. A sizing chart with measurements will be given below.

I have used Aran (US Worsted) weight acrylic yarn for my mittens. You can use any worsted/aran weight yarn you prefer.

Warm Baby Mittens Crochet Pattern

Scroll down to view the FREE baby mittens crochet pattern
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All crochet patterns from Hooked On Patterns are written using US crochet terms.

This crochet pattern is free to view online below. You also have the option to purchase the ad-free Cute & Cosy Baby Mittens PDF download. This includes extra high-quality, step-by-step, photographs throughout, an in-depth tutorial for the Spiked Moss Stitch, plus a separate printer-friendly version. Available to purchase for just £3.00

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What You’ll Need To Crochet Baby Mittens

You will need some aran/worsted weight #4 yarn for these mittens. Your choice of main colour and an accent colour for the cuffs.

I have used Paintbox Yarn Simply Aran. But, you can use any type of #4 aran or worsted weight yarn you prefer.

You will need approximately 40g/64m/70yds of your chosen main colour, and 16g/ 26m/28yds of your cuff colour per pair.

Gauge:
2” square = 9 hdc x 5 rows for the cuff,
4 SPsc + ch1 sts x 9 rows for the main stitch.

I have used a 5mm hook for the cuff, and a 5.5mm hook for the main mitten. Adjust your hook sizes to meet the gauge if needed.

You will also need a yarn needle and scissors.

This pattern is written for 2 sizes. Babies’ hand sizes can vary greatly, the given age groups are an approximation only. Please use the ﬁnished measurements given in the size chart below to select a suitable size. These mittens do not have a separate thumb.

Click to enlarge

Measure the width between the bottom knuckles of baby’s pinky and thumb.
Measure the length from the wrist to the tip of the middle ﬁnger.
Measure the circumference around baby’s wrist for the cuff.

The pattern will be written as Size A, with changes for Size B shown after / in Blue. Photographs show the making of Size A.

Stitches & Terms Used For The Baby Crochet Mittens:

(ch) Chain, (sp) Space, (sk) Skip, (sl st) Slip Stitch, (sc) Single Crochet, (hdc) Half Double Crochet, (BLO) Back Loops Only.

The main mitten is made using a Spiked Moss Stitch pattern. This uses the following special stitches:
(SPsc) Spiked Single Crochet – A single crochet stitch made in the stitch 2 rows below,
(SPsc2tog) Spiked Single Crochet 2 Together – Single crochet 2 together using the indicated stitches of 2 rows below.

A number shown after x, means work the same stitch in the following number of stitches (eg. sc x3 = work a single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches).

Instructions within [ ] are to be worked into the same stitch/space.

Number within ( ) show the total number of stitches you should have after that row/round.

Let’s get started!

Copyright: This free Cute & Cosy Baby Mittens crochet pattern was written, designed, and copyright held by, Ling Ryan/Hooked On Patterns. You are not permitted to copy, share, edit, upload or redistribute this pattern in any way, this includes making video tutorials or translating into other languages. Personal use only. You may sell products you have personally crocheted from using this pattern. Please credit Ling Ryan or Hooked On Patterns as the designer if you do sell. By using this page/crochet pattern you are agreeing to all T&Cs.

Baby Mittens Crochet Pattern-
Working the Spiked Moss Stitch Pattern:

The Moss Stitch (aka the Granite Stitch, Linen Stitch, or Woven Stitch) is made by working a Single Crochet followed by Chain 1 and skipping 1 along the row, turning and repeating the pattern working into the Chain 1 Spaces of the previous row.

For the Spiked Moss Stitch, instead of working a Single Crochet into the Chain 1 Space of the previous row, we will be making the stitch into the skipped stitch top of the row below.

When working your Spiked Single Crochet stitches (SPsc), insert your hook into the stitch below the ch1 sp, yarn over and draw up a loop and then elongate the loop to bring it level with the new row, as if you were to make normal single crochets along that row.

We will also be shaping the piece by increasing and decreasing stitches. Increases are made by working [SPsc, ch1, SPsc] all into the same stitch. When working back along that row, we will work a sc into the middle ch1 sp.

For decreases, we will be working a Spiked Single Crochet 2 Together Stitch (SPsc2tog). To do this, we will use the next 2 available stitch tops beneath ch1s to work each leg of the sc2tog stitch, ignoring the SPsc stitch in between them.

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Infant Mittens Crochet Pattern

To make these mittens, we will start with the ribbed turn-up cuffs and work the rest of the mitten onto the edge of them. We will be working the mittens all in a ﬂat piece and will seam the mittens once complete.

Free Baby Crochet Mittens:
Start With Crocheting the Ribbed Cuffs

Make 2 as follows:
Using a 5mm hook and your chosen cuff colour, ch11/12,

R1.

Starting from the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch, turn
(10/11 hdc sts)

R2.

ch1 (does not count as a stitch), hdc in the BLO of each st, turn
(10/11 hdc sts)

R3.-R12./R14.

Repeat R2. for a total of 10/12 rows.
(10/11 hdc sts)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail (approx. 8”) and pull through to fasten off.

Your cuffs should measure 4.5/5” long by 2.5/2.75” wide, without stretching.

Top Tip: To help maintain a consistent gauge for the Right and Left mittens, I recommend working both simultaneously, a section at a time.

The Right and Left hands will be the same. Just keep the seamed edge along the pinky when wearing, allowing the increased area for the thumbs.

Crocheting the Main Baby mittens

We will now join our main colour along the edge of the cuff to work the main mitten. We will increase to widen for the thumb and then decrease around the ﬁngertips.

When working along the edge of the cuff, we will work 3 slip stitches evenly along every 2 rows. Hooking through the leg of the hdc stitches, through both loops of the edge stitch top, and through the turning ch1 loop as indicated by the pins below.

Make 2 as follows:
Switch to a 5.5mm hook,

R1.

Please note the different joining points for each size. We will be Joining yarn with a sl st into the last stitch worked of the cuff. For Size A, join into the leg of the hdc stitch. For Size B, join through the back loop only of the stitch top, sl st x17/21 evenly along the edge of the cuff, turn
(18/22 sl sts including the joining sl st)

R2.

Work through both loops of each slip stitch.
ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st, turn
(18/22 sc sts)

R3.

ch2 (counts as a ch1 sp throughout the pattern), sk the ﬁrst st, sc, *ch1, sk1, sc*, repeat between * to the end of row, turn
(Total of 18/22 sts)

R4.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 2/3 more times, ch1, sk1, [SPsc, ch1, SPsc] into the next sc below the ch1 sp, repeat between * again 4/5 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 20/24 sts)

R5.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 2/3 more times, ch1, sk1, sc into the ch1 sp of the increase, repeat between * again 5/6 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 20/24 sts)

R6.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * to the end of row, turn
(Total of 20/24 sts)

R7.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 2/3 more times, ch1, sk1, [SPsc, ch1, SPsc] into the next sc below the ch1 sp, repeat between * again 5/6 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 22/26 sts)

R8.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 3/4 more times, ch1, sk1, sc into the ch1 sp of the increase, repeat between * again 5/6 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 22/26 sts)

R9.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * to the end of row, turn
(Total of 22/26 sts)

R10.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 3/4 more times, ch1, sk1, [SPsc, ch1, SPsc] into the next sc below the ch1 sp, repeat between * again 5/6 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 24/28 sts)

R11.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 3/4 more times, ch1, sk1, sc into the ch1 sp of the increase, repeat between * again 6/7 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 24/28 sts)

R12.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * to the end of row, turn
(Total of 24/28 sts)

R13.-R16./R18.

Repeat R12. for 4/6 rows.
(Total of 24/28 sts)

We will now start decreasing. You will notice the piece bulging in the middle. This is will form the thumb area when folded.

R17./R19.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the sc below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 3/4 more times, ch1, sk1, SPsc2tog, repeat between * again 5/6 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 22/26 sts)

R18./R20.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 3/4 more times, ch1, sk the SPsc2tog st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, repeat between * again 5/6 times to the end of row, turn
(Total of 22/26 sts)

R19./R21.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc2tog, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 6/8 more times, ch1, sk1, SPsc2tog, turn
(Total of 18/22 sts)

R20./R22.

ch2, sk the SPsc2tog st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 6/8 more times, ch1, sk the SPsc2tog st, SPsc into the st below the last ch1 sp, turn
(Total of 18/22 sts)

R21./R23.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc2tog, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 0/1 more time, ch1, sk1, SPsc2tog, repeat between * again 2/3 times, ch1, sk1, SPsc2tog, turn
(Total of 12/16 sts)

R22./R24.

ch2, sk the SPsc2tog st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 1/2 more times, ch1, sk the SPsc2tog st, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp, repeat between * again 1/2 more times, ch1, sk the SPsc2tog st, SPsc into the st below the last ch1 sp, turn
(Total of 12/16 sts)

R23./R25.

ch2, sk the ﬁrst st, SPsc2tog, *ch1, sk1, SPsc into the st below the ch1 sp*, repeat between * 1/3 more times, ch1, sk1, SPsc2tog.
(Total of 8/12 sts)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail (approx. 35” long) and pull through the last loop to fasten off.

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Seaming the Baby mittens

Using the long tail end of the mitten, fold the mitten in half so that the Right Side is on the inside, aligning the side edge.

Whip stitch along the top edge towards the fold going 2 rows deep to catch the tops of the skipped stitches of the second row down (check there are no gaps by ﬂipping it inside out).

Whip stitch back along the top edge, and then continue down the side edge of the mitten. Tie the tail and starting end together to secure. Weave in ends.

Using the long tail of the cuff section, seam the edges of the cuff by whip stitching through the back loops of the hdc stitches and the base of the starting chain. Secure and weave in ends.