Create my delicious-looking Easter chocolate bunny with this no-sew FREE crochet pattern!
These crocheted bunnies will make fab gifts for Easter as alternatives to chocolate treats. Or they can be made in any colour as soft toys or nursery decor.
The bunnies can be made with any weight or type of yarn. The yarn you choose will determine the size of your finished bunny.
I have used a Chunky/Bulky weight acrylic yarn with a 5mm hook for my main Easter bunnies measuring approx. 9”/23cm tall.
For my extra large Easter bunny measuring approx. 13”/33cm tall, I have used a Super Chunky/Super Bulky (#6) acrylic yarn with an 8mm hook.
How to Crochet an Easter Chocolate Bunny
You can view the chocolate bunny pattern for free below to get started right away, or Pin this pin to come back later! (Pining would also help me!)
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All crochet patterns from Hooked On Patterns are written using US crochet terms.
MAIN MENU (Free Easter Chocolate Bunny Crochet Pattern)
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- BUY the PRINTABLE Chocolate Bunny PDF Download
- What You’ll Need To Crochet A Chocolate Easter Bunny
- Easter Chocolate Bunny Pattern Notes
- Crochet Stitches Used
- Crocheting The Easter Bunny’s Front Legs
- Crocheting The Base Of The Bunny’s Body
- Attaching The Legs To The Body
- Crocheting The Rest Of The Bunny’s Body, Head & Ears
What You’ll Need To Crochet My Easter Chocolate Bunnies
You can use any type or weight of yarn to make your bunnies. Just use a crochet hook at least 1 size smaller than recommended on your yarn label to keep your stitches tight.
Exact gauge isn’t too important but you want to keep your stitches compact so that the stuffing doesn’t show through.
I’ve used Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky acrylic yarn with a 5mm hook for my main 9″ tall bunnies.
I used yarn shades Champagne (302) for White Chocolate, Soft Fudge (309) for Milk Chocolate, and Coffee Bean (310) for Dark Chocolate.
For my larger, Extra Dark Chocolate, bunny, I’ve used Hayfield Bonus Super Chunky in Cocoa (575) with an 8mm hook.
The amount of yarn used will vary depending on your choice of yarn and hook size but, as a guide, I have used approximately 70 yards to make each of my 3 main bunnies and 100 yards to make my extra large bunny.
You’ll also need some toy stuffing, stitch markers, a yarn needle and scissors.
Crochet Easter Bunny Pattern Notes
The Construction of the Crochet Chocolate Bunny:
This Easter chocolate bunny is all crocheted without needing to sew any parts together.
We will start by crocheting the 2 front legs and then crochet the base of the main body.
We will then crochet the front legs onto the body and continue up the body, continuing onto the head and up one ear, finishing at the tip and then returning to crochet the second ear.
Shaping the Crochet Chocolate Bunny:
The bunny form is created by making multiple increases and decreases.
It is important to follow the instructions carefully to ensure the form is shaped correctly.
If you find that you do not have enough or have too many stitches towards the end of a round, please go back and check you have followed the pattern correctly.
Please do not just add/leave out a stitch to compensate as this will throw off the shaping.
Crocheting in Continuous Rounds:
We will be working in continuous rounds throughout this pattern.
Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
Your starting point will naturally drift when working in rounds (towards the right for right-handed crocheters, and vice versa, at a rate of approximately 1 stitch every 4-5 rounds), this has been taken into consideration when designing the bunny.
Please do not try to compensate by adding or removing stitches to adjust your starting point.
Stuffing your Easter Crochet Bunny:
When stuffing, you want to firmly fill the contours of your bunny form enough to define and hold the shape.
Not too little that it is easily squished out of shape, but not too much that you distort the shaping or can see your stuffing through stretched gaps.
Crocheting Invisible Decreases:
When working decreases we will use the invisible decrease technique instead of just working 2tog stitches.
This helps keep the decrease stitches tight and gives a smoother finish.
To work invisible decreases you need to hook through the Front Loops Only of the next 2 stitches to work 1 stitch. We’ll be using this technique for sc stitches and hdc stitches.
dec = Hook through the Front Loops Only of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
hdc-dec = Yarn over, hook through the Front Loops Only of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Easter Bunny’s Tail – Working into Double Crochet Clusters:
The bunny’s tail is created using a combination of double crochet cluster stitches.
These stitches will naturally be wider than our single and half double crochet stitches.
When we work into these stitches we will use the Front Loops Only and the Front Bar directly below the front loop to help minimise any gaping.
Crochet Stitches & Terms Used For The Easter Chocolate Bunny
This pattern is written using US crochet terms. Please refer to my Crochet Terms Conversion Chart for help with translating into UK terms.
(mr) Magic Ring, (ch) Chain, (sc) Single Crochet, (inc) Increase – 2 sc in the same st, (dec) Decrease – Invisible (see pattern notes above), (hdc) Half Double Crochet, (hdc-dec) Half Double Crochet Decrease – Invisible,
(dc2tog) Double Crochet 2 Together – Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 3 loops.
(2dcCL) 2 Double Crochet Cluster – Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the same st again, yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through the remaining 3 loops.
(dc4tog over 2 stitches) Double Crochet 4 Together over 2 stitches – Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the same st again, yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (4 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the same st again, yarn over and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (5 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
Front Bar & Front Loop Only – When working into the dc stitches created as above, we will use the Front Bars and Front Loops Only – See the Bunny’s Tail section of the pattern notes above for a detailed description.
Numbers shown in ( ) at the end of each row/round indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of that row/round.
To help you read this pattern, the commas represent each stitch or the number of stitches after x. For example: “sc, inc,” would mean sc into the next st, and make an increase (2 sc stitches) in the following st. Or “sc x3, 2hdc,” would mean sc into each of the next 3 stitches, and make 2 hdc stitches in the following st.
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Crocheting the Easter Bunny’s Front Legs
We will start with the feet and work up the leg. Do not fasten off the legs as we will crochet them onto the body later.
We’ll be working in continuous rounds, so use a stitch marker to keep track of your first stitch each round. Make 2 legs as follows:
Start with Magic Ring,
sc x6 into mr, pull closed (6)
inc in each st (12)
sc in each st (12)
sc in each st (12)
sc x3, dec x3, sc x3 (9)
sc in each st (9 for 5 rounds)
sc x4, cut yarn leaving a couple of inches, pull the loop on hook up a little (or use a stitch marker) to hold the loop but do not fasten off. We will undo these 4 stitches later when we come to join onto the body.
Stuff the leg firmly, leave aside for later and repeat for the second front leg.
Crocheting The Base Of The Easter Bunny’s Body
We will start at the base of the bunny and shape the hind legs before joining the front legs. Then we’ll work up the body, onto the head and finish with the ears.
Again, we’ll be working in continuous rounds, so use a stitch marker to keep track of your first stitch each round.
Start by chaining 4 and work around both sides of this chain to form a round,
Starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sc x2, inc, rotate to work back up the opposite side of the chain, sc x2, inc (8)
inc, sc, inc x3, sc, inc x2 (14)
inc x2, sc x3, inc x3, sc x5, inc (20)
sc, inc x2, sc x4, inc x2, sc x2, inc, sc x6, inc, sc (26)
sc x2, 2hdc x2, sc x6, 2hdc x2, sc x4, inc, sc x6, inc, sc x2 (32)
sc x24, we will now add the base of the bunny’s tail – dc2tog over then next 2 sts, dc2CL in the same as last st, dc2tog using the same st and the next stitch, complete the round with sc x5 (32)
sc x9, dec, sc x13, we will now create the top of the bunny’s tail – dc4tog over the next 2 sts using the Front Bar and Front Loops (as explained in Bunny’s Tail section of the pattern notes), dc4tog using the same as last and the following st using the Front Bar and Front Loops, complete the round with sc x5 (30)
sc x2, dec x3, inc, dec x3, sc x8, sc through the Front Bar and Front Loops of the next 2 stitches, sc x5 (25)
inc, dec x2, inc x2, dec x2, inc x2, sc x11, inc (27)
inc, sc x10, inc, sc x3, inc, sc x7, inc, sc x3 (31)
sc x7, dec, sc x22 (30)
sc, dec x2, sc x3, inc, sc x3, dec x2, sc x3, dec, sc x2, inc, sc x2, dec, sc x2 (26)
Hold your working stitch with a stitch marker (or by pulling the loop on hook long) and attach the front legs here.
~ Some Other Easter Patterns ~
Attaching The Bunny’s Front Legs
Take one front leg and undo the 4 extra stitches you made at the end of the front legs section and replace your hook into the working loop. You should be positioned just before the 3 stitches along the back of the leg with the toes facing forward. The toes should point up when you lay your hook down (as shown below). If you think you need to adjust the position, you can add or remove extra stitches as needed here.
Locate the increase stitch at the front of the body and place a marker in the stitch on the left of the two sc stitches.
Line up the back 3 leg stitches with the stitches of the body next to your placed marker.
Work through both the body stitches and the leg stitches to join the leg to the body. Insert your hook through the wrong-side of the body stitches and through the right-side of the leg stitches and make sc x3 to join and pull the tail end through the loop on hook to fasten off.
Remove the stitch marker you placed in the increase stitch earlier and locate the 3 stitches before the first leg to join your second leg. Undo the extra stitches from the second leg to position the toes forward, as before.
Join the second leg in the same way to these 3 stitches and then continue to join the inner stitch of both legs together, making a total of sc x4, pull the tail end through to fasten off. You will have 5 unused stitches remaining on each leg.
You can just tuck the remaining tail ends from the legs into the body as you continue, or you can weave them in here if you prefer.
Continue crocheting the rest of the Easter bunny
Replace your hook into the held stitch at the end of R12. to continue, sc x2, dec, working along the first leg, inc, sc x3, inc, continue across the second leg, inc, sc x3, inc, continue along the body again, dec, sc x4, dec, sc x4, dec, sc x2 (30)
sc x10, inc, sc x12, hdc-dec, hdc, hdc-dec, sc x2 (29)
sc x7, inc, sc x6, inc, sc x9, hdc, hdc-dec, hdc, sc (30)
Start stuffing the base of the body here. Be sure to fill out the toes, tail, and leg bulges to form a firm shape.
sc x26, hdc x4 (30)
hdc-dec, sc x6, dec, sc x6, dec, sc x6, hdc-dec, hdc x4 (26)
sc x8, dec, sc x2, dec, sc x8, hdc-dec x2 (22)
dec, sc x17, dec, sc (20)
sc, *dec, sc x3*, repeat between * 2 more times, dec, sc x2 (16)
Finish stuffing the body here.
inc, sc x2, inc, sc x2, 2hdc, hdc, 2hdc, sc x2, inc, sc x2, inc, sc (22)
sc, inc, *sc x3, inc*, repeat between * 4 more times (28)
sc x12, inc, sc x4, inc, sc x10 (30)
sc x15, inc x2, sc x13 (32)
sc in each st (32)
sc x16, hdc-dec x2, sc x12 (30)
sc x4, dec, sc x3, dec, sc x3, hdc-dec x3, sc x3, dec, sc x3, dec (23)
Start stuffing the base of the head here.
sc x9, dec, hdc-dec, hdc, hdc-dec, dec, sc x5 (19)
sc x8, hdc, hdc-dec x3, hdc, sc x3 (16)
inc, sc x2, inc, sc x3, dec x3, sc x3 (15)
Finish stuffing the head. We will now start working on the first ear.
sc x2, dec, ch4, skip 7, sc x4 (11)
sc x2, inc, sc x4 along the ch sts, sc x4 (12)
sc x3, inc, sc x8 (13)
sc x10, dec, sc (12)
sc in each st (12)
sc x4, dec, sc x4, dec (10)
sc in each st (10)
sc x3, dec, sc x3, dec (8)
sc in each st (8)
sc x2, dec x2, sc x2 (6)
Cut yarn and pull the end up through the last stitch. Thread the tail end through the Front Loops Only of the last 6 stitches to close the tip and weave in the end to secure.
Stuff the ear lightly from the open underside. We want to fill it enough to hold it upright, but we don’t want to make the ear too thick (see further down for a back view of the finished ears).
Crocheting the Easter Bunny’s second ear
We will now work on the second ear. We’ll rejoin the yarn onto the opposite side of the ch4 we made in R29. across the middle of the head, and start with a couple of set-up rounds:
Rejoin yarn with a sc into the opposite side of the 3rd chain across the middle of the head, sc into the next ch, sc x7, sc x2 along the remaining chains to complete the round (11)
sc x3, inc, sc x7 (12)
Now, repeat from R33. – R40. to work the second ear the same way as the first, but this time, stuff the ear as you go.
You have now finished your very own crocheted Easter Chocolate Bunny.
I hope you have enjoyed this free chocolate bunny crochet pattern. You can browse through all of my other crochet patterns here, including many more free designs.
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