Free Pumpkin Crochet Pattern Gonk Outfit
THANKSGIVING GONKS CROCHET PATTERNS
Scroll down for the Free Pumpkin Crochet Pattern Gonk outfit.
If you would like the Turkey Gonk, Pilgrim Gonk, or Native Gonk crochet patterns, please support us by purchasing the PDF. This Pumpkin Gonk is also included, along with photos for each outfit. You can purchase the complete Thanksgiving Gonks 4 Pack for just £1.50 here.
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Copyright: This free pumpkin crochet pattern outfit was written, designed, and copyright held by, Ling Ryan/hookedonpatterns.com. You are not permitted to copy, share, upload or redistribute this pattern in any way, this includes making video tutorials or translating. Personal use only. You may sell products you have personally crocheted from using this pattern. Please credit Ling Ryan or hookedonpatterns.com as the designer if you do sell. By using this page/crochet pattern you are agreeing to all T&Cs.
You may have noticed, this Pumpkin Gonk outfit is similar to my Pumpkin Pots crochet pattern. This was actually the inspiration for the treat pots! If you haven’t seen them already, check out the Free Pumpkin Pots pattern on my blog.
FREE PUMPKIN CROCHET PATTERN – GONK COSTUME
You will need Orange and Green yarn for a Pumpkin Gonk outfit. You will also need some toy stuffing (polyester fibrefill).
Stitches/terms used:
(ch) Chain, (mr) Magic Ring, (sl st) Slip Stitch, (sc) Single Crochet, (hdc) Half Double Crochet, Crab Stitch – reverse single crochets, (inc) Increase – 2sc in same st, (dec) Decrease (invisible) – hook through front loop only of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. You will also be working front or back loops only for some stitches.
To help you read these patterns, the commas represent each stitch or the number of stitches after x. For example; {sc, inc,} would mean sc into next st, increase (2sc) in following st. Or {sc x3, inc,} would mean sc each into the next 3 stitches, increase in the following st. Where you see “repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x“, it means that the round will finish without a completing a full repeat, only allowing the stated number of x stitches at the end.
Free Pumpkin Gonk crochet pattern – doll body:
You can use a Nude Gonk or any clothing colours for your base as it will hardly be seen. If you would like to make a Gonk with clothing colours, follow this guide for colour changes:
Work the main body as detailed in the original Santa Gonk pattern from R1. to R7. in Black yarn for shoes. Work R8.–R13. in your trousers colour. Work R14.-R15. in a belt colour. Work R16. to R19. in a shirt colour. Work R20. to R30. in Skin Tone colour for the head. For the arms, start R1.–R3. in Skin Tone and finish with your shirt colour. Or you can make them all in Skin Tone for a vest.
Find the position for the nose by lining up the top of the nose under the 8th round from top. Attach the arms on either side under the 10th round from top. Add hair to the head using the same technique as used for the beard in any colour, length or style you choose. I have opted to go with a clean shaven Adam Gonk for ease of costume changes. you can add facial hair if you like.
Pumpkin suit:
The pumpkin suit is made of a fitted base shirt with the outer pumpkin shape added on top and stuffed in between the 2 layers.
Base:
This piece will be worked in joined rounds from the bottom hem, up to the neckline. Beginning ch1s do not count as stitches.
Using Orange yarn start with chaining 42 and sl st into the first ch to form a circle,
R1. ch1, sc in each ch, sl st into the first sc to join (42)
R2.-R4. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (42 for 3 rounds)
R5. ch1, *dec, sc x5,* repeat between * to the end of round, sl st to join (36)
R6.-R10. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (36 for 5 rounds)
R11. ch1, *dec, sc x4,* repeat between * to the end of round, sl st to join (30)
R12. ch1, sc x10, ch5 and sk5, sc x10, ch5 and sk5, sl st into the first sc to join (30 – 20 sc sts and 10 chs)
Continue onto the first sleeve from here.
Add the sleeves:
The the ch5s of the last round, skipped 5 stitches, and the sc posts at each edge make up the armholes. Turn the piece upside down to work along the last ch5 made.
R1. ch1, sc x5 along the ch sts, sc around the sc post at the edge, sc x5 along the skipped sts of R11., sc around the sc post at the other edge, sl st into first sc to join (12)
R2.-R6. ch1, sc in each st, sl st into first sc to join (12 for 5 rounds) Fasten off and weave in ends.
Don’t worry about the visible seams, they will be hidden by the outer layer. Rejoin yarn to the beginning of the other ch5 and repeat for the second sleeve.
~ Get ready for Xmas! ~
Shaped outer:
We will rejoin onto the neckline of the base piece, working along the wrong side of the last round. We will use the two sets of 10 sc sts and the opposite side of the two ch5s used for the sleeves (a total of 30 sts). Work this section in continuous rounds using a stitch marker to keep your first stitch.
R1. Join yarn with a sc in a sc st directly after a sleeve (so that you are at the beginning of a 10 sc section), sc in the next st, *2hdc, sc x4,* repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x2 (36)
R2. sc x2, *2hdc x2, sc x4,* repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x2 (48)
R3. sc x2, *2hdc x4, sc x4,* repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x2 (72)
R4. sc x11, *dec, sc x10,* repeat between * until one stitch remains, remove your marker and dec using the last and first st (66)
R5. sc in each st (66)
R6. We will join onto the sleeves from this round. ch1, sc x27, straighten out the sleeve below and find the top 6 sts, sc x6 going through both the next working piece stitches and the top sleeve stitches, sc x27, join to the next sleeve as before sc x6 through both pieces (66)
R7. sc x27, sc x6 along the bottom 6 sleeve stitches and skip the previous 6 top joining stitches, sc x27, sc x6 along the other bottom sleeve stitches (66)
R8.-R13. sc in each st (66 for a total of 6 rounds)
R14. sc x3, *dec, sc x3, dec, sc x4,* repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x1 (54)
R15. sc x4, *dec x2, sc x5,* repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x1 (42) Fill with toy stuffing, in between the base and outer piece. Ensure you fill in behind the sleeves as well. Keep the inside smooth by placing your hand behind the base piece, to provide a firm straight base to stuff against.
R16. We will now join the outer and base pieces together. ch1, sc going through both the working piece and the base piece below in each st (42) Fasten off and weave in ends.
Add the groove details:
Work lines along the dips of the outer pumpkin shape to accentuate the grooves. Take a long strand of Orange yarn at least 1 metre in length (about an arms stretch worth) and your yarn needle. Attach the end to the inside of the base shirt, 2 rounds down and in the middle of 2 bumps. Thread the yarn through and out in between the middle of the outer top bumps, 2 rounds down from the top and loop in and out around a stitch next to the yarn to secure in place.
Step 1. Bring the yarn straight down and thread it back through to the inside of the base shirt, 1 round up from the bottom.
Step 2. Pull the yarn to adjust the depth of the groove to the desired effect and secure by looping around the stitch next to the yarn.
Step 3. Feed the yarn in between the 2 layers to come out at the base of the next groove point. Loop around a stitch to secure in place.
Step 4. Bring the yarn straight up and back through in between the middle of the top bumps.
Step 5. Pull the yarn and loop around to secure to the desired depth.
Step 6. Feed the yarn through in between the layers coming out in the middle of the next 2 bumps and secure in place.
Repeat from Step 1. to make a line for each groove. Be careful not to thread through the sleeves, feed the yarn behind them.
Pumpkin Top Hat:
Work this piece in continuous rounds. Using Green yarn, start with a magic ring,
R1. 6sc into mr, pull closed (6)
R2. inc x2, sc x4 (8)
R3.-R4. sc in each st (8 for 2 rounds)
R5. inc x2, sc x6 (10)
R6. sc in each st (10)
R7. inc x2, sc x8 (12)
R8. sc in each st (12)
R9. *inc, sc,* repeat between * to the end of round, fasten off Green yarn (18)
R10. Using Orange yarn make a slip knot, work this round in the back loops only. hook through the back loop of the first st and pull through the slip knot, sl st in each back loop ending in the same st as beginning (18)
R11. Work this round in the front loops only of the Orange sl sts. *sc, inc x2,* repeat between * to the end of round (30)
R12. Work this round in the front loops only again, sc in each front loop (30)
R13. sc x2, *2hdc x2, sc x3,* repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x1 (42)
R14. sc in each st (42)
R15. sc x2, *dec x2, sc x3,* repeat between * to the end of round ending with sc x1 (30)
R16.-R19. sc in each st (30 for 4 rounds) finish with a sl st into the first st to join
R20. Finish with a trim, crab stitch (reverse single crochet) in each st, fasten off and weave in ends (30)
Jack O’Lantern:
To make your pumpkin suit as a Halloween costume, you can add a face to turn it into a Jack O’Lantern! I have embroidered a face straight onto the front of the body. For the eyes, start with a simple triangle outline and then fill within the line with long stitches. For the mouth, just add a zig zag line from the edge of one eye to the other. You can use Black yarn for an unlit lantern, or use Yellow yarn for a lit lantern effect.
Congratulations!
You have completed the Pumpkin Gonk free crochet pattern
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