Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit for Gonk

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit for Gonk

Please remember, you will still need my original Santa Gonk crochet pattern to follow these free add-on outfits and accessories. If you haven’t already done so, you can support me by purchasing your copy here Santa Gonk, or via our Ravelry store.

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit

Copyright: This free crochet dragon pattern outfit for Gonk was written, designed, and copyright held by, Ling Ryan/Hooked On Patterns. You are not permitted to copy, share, upload or redistribute this pattern in any way, this includes making video tutorials or translating into other languages. Personal use only. You may sell products you have personally crocheted from using this pattern. Please credit Ling Ryan or Hooked On Patterns as the designer if you do sell.  By using this page/crochet pattern you are agreeing to all T&Cs.

DRAGON GONK FREE CROCHET PATTERN

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit

Crochet this Dragon Gonk to celebrate St. David’s day, or make a dragon just for fun! This free crochet dragon pattern is for the one piece dragon suit, which includes textured scales, wings and a pointed curly tail.

Gonk Body:Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit

You can use a Nude Gonk, or any base you like for this outfit, as it will be hidden. To complement the dragon design, I have given my Gonk a fiery beard using Orange and Yellow yarn.
I have made a Red Welsh Dragon in honour of St. David’s Day, but you can make a dragon in any colour you like.
Remember, you can use any yarn weight to make the Gonks, just keep to the same weight for the outfits.

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Gonk Costume:

For the bodysuit piece, we will start with working the base in joined rounds all on the right side. We will then work up the body, first in rounds followed by rows, turning to alternate sides after each round/row, before joining back into working rounds again for the hood. The ears are worked within the hood section.
Beginning ch1s do not count as stitches throughout.
When we begin turning, I will mark the end of the round/row with right side (RS) or wrong side (WS) to indicate which side that round/row was made on, so you can keep track and ensure you’re following correctly.
We will be working a textured stitch for the dragon’s scales. This is done by alternating between hdc and sl st stitches. When we work alternate rows, we’ll be working the hdc sts into the sl sts and sl sts into the hdc sts.

For this pattern, we will be using the following US crochet terms:
(mr) Magic Ring, (ch) Chain, (sl st) Slip Stitch, (sc) Single Crochet, (inc) Increase – 2sc in the same st, (dec) Decrease [invisible] – hook through the front loops only of the next 2 sts and work a sc, (hdc) Half Double Crochet, (dc) Double Crochet, (trc) Treble Crochet. We will also be working into the back bumps of some of the chains.

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern OutfitBase:

Using Red yarn (or your chosen colour), start with a magic ring and work this section all on the right side without turning,

R1. sc x6 into mr, pull closed, sl st into first sc to join (6)
R2. ch1, inc x6, sl st to join (12)
R3. ch1, *sc, inc,* repeat between* a total of 6 times, sl st to join (18)
R4. ch1, *inc, sc x2,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, sl st to join (24)
R5. ch1, *sc x3, inc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, sl st to join (30)
R6. ch1, *inc, sc x4,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, sl st to join (36)
R7. ch1, sc x3, *inc, sc x5,* repeat between * a total of 2 times, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x2, repeat between * 2 more times, inc, sc x2 (43)
Continue onto the Main Body.

Main Body:

We will start working the main body in joined rounds, but change directions at the end of each round. Continuing on from R7., work R8. on the right side of work, turning to work R9. on the wrong side and continue turning after every round/row. We will stop joining rounds and change to working in rows, and start decreasing from R16.. Decreasing should always be done when on the right side (outside) of your work.

R8. ch1, sc x5, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 16 times, sl st, sc x5, sl st into the first sc to join, turn (43, RS)
R9. ch1, sc x5, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 16 times, hdc, sc x5, sl st to join, turn (43, WS)
R10.-R13. repeat R8.-R9. twice. (43 for 4 rounds, ending on WS)
R14. ch1, sc x7, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 14 times, sl st, sc x7, do not join from here on, turn (43, RS)
R15. ch1, sc x7, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 14 times, hdc, sc x7, turn (43, WS)
R16. ch1, dec, sc x7, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 12 times, sl st, sc x7, dec, turn (41, RS)
R17. ch1, sc x8, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 12 times, hdc, sc x8, turn (41, WS)
R18. ch1, dec, sc x8, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 10 times, sl st, sc x8, dec, turn (39, RS)
R19. ch1, sc x9, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 10 times, hdc, sc x9, turn (39, WS)
R20. ch1, dec, sc x7, dec, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 8 times, sl st, dec, sc x7, dec, turn (35, RS)
R21. ch1, sc x9, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 8 times, hdc, sc x9, turn (35, WS)
R22. ch1, dec, sc x3, ch7, skip the next 4 sts, dec, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, sl st, dec, sc, ch7, skip the next 4 sts, sc x3, dec, turn (37, RS)
R23. ch1, sc x4, sc x7 along ch sts, sc, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, hdc, sc, sc x7 along ch sts, sc x4, turn (37, WS)
R24. ch1, dec, sc x2, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, sl st, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc x2, dec, turn (29, RS)
R25. ch1, sc x8, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 6 times, hdc, sc x8, turn (29, WS)
Continue onto the Hood.

Hood & Ears:

We will now join back into rounds to form the hood section. The ears will be worked directly into the piece in R31.. We will continue to turn after each round until R30. where we will finish with working on the right side only. 

R26. ch1, dec, sc x3, dec, sc x3, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 4 times, sl st, sc x3, dec, sc x3, dec, ch5, sl st into the first st to join, turn (30, RS)
R27. ch1, sc x5 along the ch sts, sc x8, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 4 times, hdc, sc x8, sl st to join, turn (30, WS)
R28. ch1, dec, sc x4, dec, sl st, hdc, sl st, dec, hdc, sl st, hdc, sl st, dec, sc x4, dec, sc x5, sl st to join, turn (25, RS)
R29. ch1, sc x11, hdc, sl st, hdc, sl st, skip the previous dec st, hdc, sl st, hdc, sc x6, sl st into the first st to join, turn (24, WS)
R30. ch1, dec, sc x2, dec, sl st, hdc, dec, sl st, hdc, dec, sc x2, dec, sc x2, dec, sc x2, sl st to join, do not turn from here on (18, RS)
R31. ch1, sc x2, working in the front loop only [sl st, sc, hdc, dc, trc, ch4, sl st], sc x8, working in the front loop only [sl st, ch4, trc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st], sc x6, sl st to join (16 sts plus 2 ears, RS)
R32. ch1, dec, sc in the unworked back loop at the base of ear, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc in the unworked back loop at the base of ear, dec, sc, dec, sc, sl st to join (12, RS)
R33. ch1, dec x6, sl st to join (6, RS)
Cut yarn, fasten off. Using your yarn needle, thread the end through the front loops of the last 6 sts and pull closed, weave in end to secure.

Arms:

The opposite side of the ch7 and skipped 4 stitches of R22. and the sc posts at the edges make up the armholes. We will work the arms in joined rounds and turn after each round to continue the scales texture as used on the main body.

R1. Join yarn with a sc to the 3rd of 4 underarm stitches, sc in the next underarm stitch, sc around the edge sc post, working along the opposite side of the ch7 *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 3 times, sl st, sc around the other edge post, sc x2 along the underarm, sl st into first sc to join, turn (13, RS)
R2. ch1, sc x3, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 3 times, hdc, sc x3, sl st to join, turn (13, WS)
R3. ch1, sc x3, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 3 times, sl st, sc x3, sl st to join, turn (13, RS)
R4.-R9. repeat R2.-R3. 3 times (13 for 6 rounds ending on RS)
R10. ch1, sc x3, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 3 times, hdc, sc x3, sl st to join, turn (13, WS)
We will now add the 3 claws separately starting with the middle claw.
R11. ch1, sc, skip the next 4 sts, sc x3, skip the next 4 sts, sc, sl st into the first sc to join (5)
R12. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (5)
R13. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (5)

Cut yarn and fasten off. Using your yarn needle, thread the end through the front loops of the last 5 sts and pull closed, weave in end to secure.
Now work claws on either side of the middle claw. Rejoin yarn to R10. to work the following on both sides:
R11. Join yarn with a sc next to the middle claw and work sc x3 around, sl st to join (4)
R12. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (4)
R13. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (4)
Cut yarn and fasten off, using your yarn needle weave the end through the front loops of the last 4 sts and pull closed, weave in end to secure.

Repeat for the other armhole.


~ Some of my other crochet patterns ~

Strawberry Coaster Set Crochet PatternWatermelon Placemat Crochet Pattern


Feet:Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit

We will work the feet in joined rounds. Starting on the right side only, then alternating for the scales, and finishing the claws on the right side only again. Make 2 as follows:
Start with a magic ring,

R1. sc x6 into mr, pull closed, sl st into first sc to join (6, RS)
R2. ch1, *sc, inc,* repeat between * a total of 3 times, sl st to join (9, RS)
R3. ch1, *sc, inc,* repeat between * a total of 4 times, sc, sl st to join (13, RS)
R4. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (13, RS)
R5. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join, turn (13, RS)
R6. ch1, sc x2, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 4 times, hdc, sc x2, sl st to join, turn (13, WS)
R7. ch1, sc x2, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 4 times, sl st, sc x2, sl st to join, turn (13, RS)
R8. ch1, sc x2, *hdc, sl st,* repeat between * a total of 4 times, hdc, sc x2, sl st to join, turn (13, WS)
R9. ch1, sc x2, *sl st, hdc,* repeat between * a total of 4 times, sl st, sc x2, sl st to join, do not turn from here on (13, RS) We will now work the claws starting with the middle claw.
R10. ch1, sc, skip the next 4 sts, sc x3, skip the next 4 sts, sc, sl st into the first st to join (5, RS)
R11. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (5, RS)
R12. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (5, RS) cut yarn and fasten off. Thread the end through the front loops of the last 5 sts to close off. Weave in end.
Make 2 more claws on either side by joining your yarn to R9. at the base of foot (non textured side) next to the middle claw and working around the previously skipped 4 sts. Repeat the following on both sides, but leave a longer tail end when finishing your last claw for attaching your foot:
R10. Rejoin yarn with a sc, sc x3, sl st to join (4, RS)
R11. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (4, RS)
R12. ch1, sc in each st, sl st to join (4, RS) Cut yarn and fasten off. Thread the end through the front loops of the last 4 sts to close off and weave in end.

Feed your long tail end through the foot to the heel, and attach to the base of your body piece. You will find it easier to position your feet with your Gonk inside the suit. Don’t worry if it seems like your Gonk is toppling backwards for now, as the tail will add balance.

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit

Tail:

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit

Start with chaining 26, and work into the back bumps of your chain,

R1. starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st x5, sc x15, hdc x5, turn (25)
R2. ch1, hdc x5, sc x15, sl st x5, turn (25)
R3. ch1, sl st x5, sc x15, hdc x5, turn (25)
R4. ch1, hdc x5, sc x15, sl st x 5 (25) sl st to the middle of the end, ch4, and work around the edge post [dc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, dc, ch4, sl st], cut yarn leaving a long tail and fasten off.

Use the tail end to stitch the edges together. From working into the back bumps of the starting chain, you’ll have visible “stitch tops” on both edges. Thread your yarn needle under these stitches on both sides to whip stitch them together. Join all the way down, leaving the last 2 stitches of both sides open.

Flatten out the open end and attach the tail to the base of the body. Allow the tail to curl over itself to create a loop.

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit


~ Looking for something more challenging? ~

Lace Cardigan Crochet PatternMilena Hooded Poncho Crochet Pattern


Wings:

Use 2 strands of your yarn without increasing your hook size. This will make the wings thicker and firmer. If you only have one ball of yarn in your colour, just work with both the inner and outer ends.
Start with chaining 24, work into the back bumps only of the starting chain (scroll down for photo guidance),

R1. dc in the 4th ch from hook, dc x2, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st, turn leaving 13 ch sts unworked (7 sts, not counting the 3 turning ch and last sl st)
R2. working along the previous stitches skipping the last sl st, sc x6, turn (6)
R3. ch3, dc in the first sc st below, dc, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st in the next back bump of the starting ch, turn (6, not counting the ch3 or last sl st)
R4. working along the previous stitches skipping the last sl st, sc x5, turn (5)
R5. ch3, dc in the first sc st below, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st in the next back bump of the starting ch, turn (5, not counting the ch3 or last sl st)
R6. working along the previous stitches skipping the last sl st, sc x4, turn (4)
R7. ch2, hdc in the first sc below, hdc, sc x2, sl st in the next back bump of starting ch, sc x5 along the back bumps of starting ch, sl st in next back bump (9 and 2 sl sts, not counting the ch2)
R8. ch6, working in the back bumps of this new chain starting from the 3rd ch from hook, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st in the next back bump of the original starting ch, turn (4, not counting the 2 turning ch and last sl st)
R9. working along the previous stitches skipping the last sl st, sc x4, ch1, turn (5)
R10. ch3, dc in the top 2 loops of the ch1 below, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st in the next back bump of starting ch, turn (5, not counting the ch3 or last sl st)
R11. working along the previous stitches skipping the last sl st, sc x5, ch1, turn (6)
R12. ch3, dc in the top 2 loops of the ch1 below, dc, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st in the next back bump of starting ch, turn (6, not counting the ch3 or last sl st)
R13. working along the previous stitches skipping the last sl st, sc x6, ch1, turn (7)
R14. ch3, dc in the top 2 loops of the ch1 below, dc x2, hdc x2, sc x2, sl st in the last back bump of starting ch, cut yarn leaving a long tail and fasten off (7, not counting the ch3 or last sl st) Weave in the starting ends.

Dragon Gonk Free Crochet Pattern

Feed the long tail ends down past the centre band to the bottom corner of the wing to position for joining. Attach the bottom edge of the wings to the back of the body, starting from the corner up, along the centre band, back down to the other corner. Feed the yarn back up to the centre band and attach along the top of the band to finish (as indicated by the green lines below). Weave in end to secure.

Free Crochet Dragon Pattern


Turtle Coaster Crochet PatternCongratulations!
You have completed the Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit

How about trying these cute hideaway Turtle Coaster Sets next?

 

© Copyright L.Ryan, Hooked On Patterns.com

2 comments on “Free Crochet Dragon Pattern Outfit for Gonk
  1. Anonymous says:

    Being Welsh I’m so grateful for Ling creating this Fantastic Dragon GONK, I knew if anyone could do it Ling Ryan could, I’m over the moon 💕💕💕💕💐💐

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